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59 of '86. 



IjETTEI^S 



WRITTEN TO 



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DURING THE SUMMER OF 




BY ZITELLA 



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LEBANON, PA. 

WORTH & REINOEHL, PRINTERS. 

1886. 






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So 

Whose interest in my welfare has been unabated since earliest 
childhood, ^g of '86 is respectfully dedicated. 



PREFACE. 



After wielding the journalistic pen sufficiently long to 
render an abbreviated account of the, to us, 59 memorable days 
of the year 1886, we cheerfully abandon the same with the hope 
that it may in the future fall into more competent hands. — 
Literary fame, save but one exception, has never been our aspi- 
ration. In years gone by, when but nine summers were ours, a 
childish romance with the euphonious (!) title of Kitty Bundle 
commenced and ended as we then thought our literary work. 
Unexpectedly 59 of '86 courageously assumes a book attitude. 
It comes to you in the form of a gift, hence treat its short- 
comings with magnanimity. 

Lebanon, Pa. T. McC. 



Sherman House, 
Corner Randolph and Clark Streets^ 
Chicago, Illinois. May 2, 1886. 

Dear Courier : From this great commercial centre, which but 
fifteen years ago that great fire fiend so completely claimed as 
its victim, and which to-day shows not a single trace of the 
terrible devastation, my first letter to you shall be written. 

On the 29th of April, at an hour far removed from the 
original for starting, the Raymond excursion party, numbering 
in the neighborhood of one hundred persons, moved out from 
the 9th and Green street station, Philadelphia, for a trip across 
the Continent. The exit was made amidst the waving of hats 
and handkerchiefs, and a few stray tears, accompanied by many 
well and hearty wishes for a safe and happy journey. The 
sun, too, which had been hidden, shone out lustily for several 
hours, setting aflame the soft bright sky of the wild and 
picturesque Lehigh Valley, through which we sped. Numerous 
halts were made until Glen Summit was reached. Here a supper 
awaited us. Well was it for those who, like j^our correspondent, 
were fortunate enough to have had a plentiful dinner, for the 
repast was certainly a mean apology of the name it bore. — 
Justice, however, forces us to say that the beginning was the 
worst. Save that exception, the meals have thus far all come 
up to the standard, only "sea sickness'' on board the train over- 
took us almost as badly as when the Pennsylvania, of the Red 
Star Line, rocked us across the briny deep; hence we could 
not partake as freely as those who were minus the attack. 

During the interval at Glen Summit, between supper and 
the hour tor retiring, the genial colored porter, George by name, 
<lis[)layed his skill at metamorphising. In a very short space 
of time the elegant sitting room was transformed into a dor- 
mitory. By an ingenious system, berths are improvised in a 
few minutes ; the beds are comfortable, but the heavy sur- 
roundings make it oppressivel}'^ close. Morpheus, that wily fel- 
low, chose to wink at us, at a disagreeable distance that first 
night, but during the second the tyrant was vanquished. 



But. to return to our journey: At midnight the train, with 
its. sleeping freight, was carried safely away from Glen Sum- 
mit. As daylight broke upon us glimpses of the undulating 
country were had. Before 9 a. m. the transformation on the car 
again took place. The bed room once more became a parlor, 
and thus it changed from one to the other until, thanks to 
ye gods, we were once more privileged to occupy that amount 
of space sanctioned by sanitary laws. 

At llornellsville, at 9 a. m., our first breakfast was had. The 
first grand sight which met our eye were Genesee Falls. 
Slowly we passed over the bridge. From this advantageous 
position we looked down into the depths below, longing for 
only one-half hour to explore some ot the beauties of this en- 
chanted spot. The season in this part ot New York is not 
nearly as far advanced as we left it in the Lebanon Valley. 
The greater part of the country looked bare, cold and uninviting, 
which served to bring out as prominently as possible the 
stump fences, those great mohir teeth, as it were, set on an 
edge, so common here and in Canada. Crossing the Suspension 
Bridge over the Niagara, we found ourselves at Clifton in 
time for dinner, and not for breakfast, as is stated in the 
Itinerary. The delay from the start became more disagreeable 
the farther on we went. Through Canada we flew amidst 
the falling drops, and fields covered with water. With the 
short seasons common here, tlie question arose in our mind, 
whether or not anything beyond the famous Canada thistle 
could be raised. We pause for a re[ily. 

Night came upon us so speedily that the most interesting 
feature of the trip trom Philadelphia to Cliicago was a failure 
for the want ot daylight, viz : the crossing of the St. Clair 
river, to Port Huron, where the train is taken in three sections 
across the stream on a beat. 

Chicago, thou truly great city of the West. What massive 
houses, what adornments are thine ! In the morning of May 
1st we took a long walk through the principal parts of the 
city, and in the afternoon a drive along the lake, through the 
famous Lincoln Park, out Wabash and Michigan avenues, the 
favorite drives of the cit3\ On these avenues some of the 
finest residences in the world may be seen. We use this 
term with impunity, for we deem them an impossibility to 
be surpassed. We visited the water works, which are consid- 
ered among the wonders of the world : the stone Tower on 
one side of the street, and the structure on the other, in which 



are the four powerful engines, three being in motion when we 
were there, with a wonderlul pumping capacity of millions of 
gallons daily, have the appearance of two beautiful churches, so 
massively and elaborately are they constructed. This morning 
we went over and under the Chicago river, the latter by the 
La Salle tunnel. The city to-day has by no means the appear- 
ance ot an Eastern Sunday, but very European-like. Business 
is done until noon the same as during the week. 

We leave this city to-inorrow, at 9 a. m., for a five days' 
run, in a Pullman Palace cur, our next resting place being 
Sante Fe, from which point we hope to write to you again. 



LETTEI^ II. 

Santa Fe, N. M., May 8, 1886. 

Dear Courier : — In simply stating that 1,772 miles have been 
traveled in six days, the reader can form only a faint 
conception of the work actually accomplished. Reminiscences 
of the past week shine out so vividly that we can scarcely 
find it in our heart to cancel any, yet our letter would be- 
come interminable, and we should be censured for the un- 
warrantable freedom we would allow ourselves of your valua- 
ble paper, were we to make a note of all, hence a few 
points must suffice. 

Let us return to Chicago, where unexpectedly we were 
privileged to visit many places of interest after our first to 
you was written. In the afternoon of May 2nd, in company 
with a jovial band oi Quakers, work at sight-seeing was con- 
tinued and prosecuted with genuine American activity, which, 
as is universally known, is neither slow or routine-like. South 
Park w^as our destination. After riding for hours in the street 
cars, making but one change, and all for the consideration of 
ten cents, we were brought to the Park, which is a rival of 
Lincoln Park. Here we found a motley assembly enjoying the 
exhilaniting spring air; the aristocracy of the city rolled and 
rumbled in all kinds of equipages, and horsemen galloped on 
beautiful steeds. In this pleasant spot, so skilfully laid out, 
with broad walks and drives, and where, when the season is 
further advanced, are scattered over these green lawn beds ot 
beautiful flowers, artistically arranged, fountains springing up in 
fairy -like nooks, artificial lakes, &c., everything contributes its 
little towards the grandeur of the whole. We could have 



spent hours here, but our time was limited, hence a run for 
the " dummy " was made, which took us in the neighborhood 
of iMichigan Avenue, where we feasted our eyes upon hundreds 
of lovely homes. On we strolled, regardless of the time, until 
the shadows of night began to overtake us, and we found our- 
selves three miles from the Sherman House, 

After tea we again continued our work. Although it was 
already 8.30, p. m., we still had much to see, and having for 
our guide a courteous lawyer, a resident of the city, we received 
much valuable information. 

Much of the ground on which Chicago's most massive build- 
ings are standing is made ground to the depth of from twenty 
to thirty feet. 

If we at all compare the destroyed city with the present, 
it is because we find it so quickly built up over its grave. 
The First National Bank, the largest building of its kind in 
the world, was opened expressly for our inspection. The safe 
vaults, with solid iron doors closed by a lock which 
defies the skill of the most accomplished burglar, would have 
opened of itself for us had we waited until 8 o'clock Mon- 
day morning. In the Columbia Theatre the Mikado was 
performed for the benefit of non-church goers. We saw noth- 
ing but the entrance of this building, which was grand in 
every particular. This theatre, by the way, received its name 
in this wise: When Miss Terry, the actress, came to the 
city she was asked to name it, when she exclaimed, "Iluil 
Columbia '." The Board of Trade, in which colossal fortunes 
are made and lost in the twinkling of an eye, is another of 
the many wonders of the city. It has a tower 375 feet high, 
upon which is placed a shi[» weighing 600 pounds. A coronet, 
illuminated with numerous gas jets, encircles the top. We 
will make mention of one more building, and that must suf- 
fice for Chicago, viz: the Palmer House. According to the 
judgment ot several connoisseurs, the attractions of this house 
are unsurpassed. Its world-famed barber pirlor, of polished 
and richly-colored marble, with its four or five hundred silver 
dollars imbedded in the marhle fioor; its five thousand dollar 
wash-stand which is su[)ported by fine Mexican onyx pillars, 
all contrive to make it a treasure house. This room alone is 
lit up with several hundred electric burners. The parlors are 
elegantly furnished, the di niiig rooms are rich in highly-polished 
marble. The whole was constructed at a cost of three millions 
of dollars. 



But we must leave this gem of the West and hasten on 
our journey to Kansas City. At 9 a. m., Monday, May 3, we 
resumed our journey over the Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific 
Pkaiiway. That superb sheet of water, the Mississippi, was 
crossed at Rock Island and Davenport. At various places its 
banks were overflowed. Monday night was spent in the cars. 
What a solitude spread around us ! A tremendous thunder 
storm was hanging o'er our heads, as the sky darkened and 
peal after peal arose, together with the puffing, hissing noise 
of the engine, deafening us with their uproar. Zig-zag lio-ht- 
ning lit up the heavens at intervals, but in safety we were 
borne on until 8 a. m., when Kansas City was reached. — 
There we spent about two hours. First we took a carriage 
ride around the city; afterwards a ride on the cable road. — 
The progress of this city is like that of all Western cities — 
wonderlul ! Real estate, which last fall brought eight thou- 
sand dollars, is to-day worth twenty thousand. Its meat mar- 
ket is as good, if not superior, to that of Chicago. It, how- 
ever, lacks a public park. The climate during the last fifteen 
years has changed considerably. There is more rain, owing to 
tlie [danting of trees. 



IL.ETTER. III- 

Dear Courier : — After leaving Kansas City, Tuesday morning, 
May 5th, with the sun shining and the rain pouring at in- 
tervals, the time was pleasantly spent in the Palace Car, in 
writing letters, talking, playing euchre, and last, though not 
least, in having the youthful crayon sketchist of the party 
deftly wielding her pencil as a good subject chanced to strike 
her fancy. Had we confidence enough in our own taste, it 
would be a pleasure to dwell for a little time on these pro- 
ductions — for the opportunity is tempting, but we dare not 
indulge, knowing that as a rule artists are sensitive, and our un- 
cultivated taste might bring i'orward what should be left in the 
shade, and leave untouched that which would give character; 
therefore we must deny ourselveB this delight. Dinner and 
supper were taken at the dining stations along the line — the 
f(nTnor at Topeka, the latter at Newton. Tliese dining rooms 
are owned by the railway company, and are under skilful 
management. At all where meals were taken thus far, entire 
satisfaction has been given. 



10 

Before leaving Newton, a gentleman from this town paid our 
car a short visit, and in genuine western style gave us much 
and interesting information about the place. But twelve years 
ago, where there is now a flourishing town, buffaloes ran at 
large, and at the present day Indians come to the market 
place to trade horses. 

Wednesday, May 6, after a tolerably good night's rest, we 
awoke in the uninviting region of Western Kansas, near 
Coolridge, having passed Dodge City during the night. The 
sun was just peeping above the eastern horizon, (we are 
very early risers, when out upon the prairies.) What a scene 
met our eyes ! Over a broad expanse of country, without a 
habitation in view, hundreds of cattle were lying dead, hav- 
inir been frozen durincj the severe winter months. It was in- 
deed, a sad, sad sight. Miles and miles of prairie land were 
passed, with nothing but the sage bush, cactus and yucca, 
scattered everywhere. Sometimes, however, to vary the mo- 
notony, emigrants living in tents were brought upon the scene. 
Surely the country here appeared to us for no good save to 
build railroads, as few bridges and no tunnels would need be 
constructed. 

At La Junta, Col., where breakfast was had, the snowy 
range came in. view, making a pleasing and prominent object 
in the landscape. Every new feature was welcomed with de- 
light. At South Pueblo, after dinner, we got ourselves in 
readiness for a visit to the Veta Pass and Toltec Gorge, via 
Denver & Rio Grande Railway. A change of cars was nec- 
essary', as we were going on a narrow guage road. Tins side 
excursion was the crowning feature of the w^eek. Between 
South Pueblo and Chuchara the heat was very oppressive. — 
Near the station of San Carlos we saw the country so smooth 
that we doubt whether it can be anywhere surpassed. As far 
us the eye could reach, with nothing to obstruct the view, an 
open stretch of country, like an immense ocean lay before us. 
However, at La Veta Pass the tableau changed. Here we 
beheld the two Spanish Peaks, (two-and-a half miles high iind 
twelve miles distant,) standing out in bold relief. At the La 
Veta Station the ground was covered with snow, which gave 
considerable amusement to some of the passengers, who in- 
dulged in the sports ol mid-winter, in the buddhig monrh of 
Ma}'. The train now began to climb the mountain steeps. — 
The two beautifully snow-covered Spanish Peaks kept flitting 
now here, now there — one second in front of you, the next 



11 

instant behind— so winding is the road. The trees looked 
like patches of green, so steep became the ascent. The heavy 
o;rades liere almost strike terror to one's hearts, but no thought 
of danger was permitted to be indulged in. As one of the 
j.assengers remarked, "if they could build the road we can 
ridii over it." When we reached the famous Mule Shoe 
Curve, neither the engine nor any car, save the one we were 
in, could be seen from our car windows. Imagine anything 
more daring if you can ! On this wonderfully-graded road, 
which goes obliquely, or in fact just any way it pleases, up 
the steep mountain side, a single false turn would plunge 
everything down an incline, from whence few would return to 
tell the talc. The train follows the windings of the moun- 
tains, now clinging to the side, then suspended above preci- 
pices, sharp angles, bold curves, plunging into narrow gorges 
from which exit seems impossible -on, on, until an elevation 
of 9,393 feet is reached! Here we began to feel a tightness 
on the chest; respiration became a task. After the west slope 
of the ransrc is gained, the immense San Louis valley which 
consists of 18,000 square miles, is entered. The Sierra Blanca, 
which at the present day claims to put all other peaks in 
the shade, having an elevation of 14,464 feet, soon comes into 
view. 

During the day dark clouds threatening us with a snow 
storm hung ominously over our heads. A slight feathery 
sprinkle would not have been objectionable, but it would have 
been no fun had we been snowed in. The views from the 
top of the mountains are marvelous. With the exception of 
a few shanties and dug-outs and at long intervals a little bit 
of open sunny cultivated patch, Nature stands alone in all 
her majesty. Passengers are often tempted to stand on the 
rear platform- while making this trip to the Veta Pass, a 
position at all times dangerous, but is particularly so here, on 
account of the frequent and sharp curves. The conductor's 
story is that during thirty-three years of railroad service, he 
saw thirty persons thrown from that perilous position. This 
.lid not seem to frighten those who were determined to sec 
ill! there was to be seen from this desirable point. 

It i^ also told as a fact that in making the Mule Shoe 
Curve, it frequently breaks oil* corners of the last car. 
Whether these western stories are a myth, like that of the 
"•little hatchet," we are unable to say. 



12 

Dear Courier: — That uo couutry can compare with America 
in its richness of natural wonders, we were forced to admit 
after our return from Toltec Gorge, Col. The praises of Ni- 
agara Falls, the Natural Bridge of Virginia, the Yosemite 
Valley have become familiar to every school boy and girl, 
and their attractions have been sei forth in such glowing and 
attractive terms, that would lead the unsophisticated to be- 
lieve that nothing ijrander in Nature could exist. But not 
so. The praises of Toltec Gorge can be sung for years ere 
all its beauties will lose their fresh riess. 

But we have been anticipating: let us retrace our thoughts 
to Alamosa, where in a car upon a side track we spent the 
night of May 5, prior to our visit to the famous Gorge. We 
left our crowded sleeping quarters very early in the morning, 
and were am[)ly repaid for the sacrifice, if there was any, for 
Old Sol certainly did magnificently on this memorable occa- 
sion. A more gorgeous sunrise we never saw. The genial 
proprietor of the Victoria House, where we took our break- 
fast, prepared us for the sudden burst. There was nothing 
gradual about it. In an instant the snow-clad Sierra Blanca 
was envelo])ed in a ball of fire, glistening like myriads of 
jewels, while the orb scintilhited more brilliantly than ever. 
The exhilarating pure morning air invigorated us to such an 
extent and sharpened our appetites, that full justice was done to 
the morning meal, and well was it for us that such was the 
case, for our dinner hour came not, until three hours beyond 
the noon-day stroke. 

At 7:40 a m.. May t), we were all ready for a visit to the 
Gorge. The party left in two sections. After passing through 
miles ot the desolate and worthless-looking country of the San 
Luis Valley, with the beautiful blue Colorado sky above our 
heads, (a dungerous rival of sunny Italy,) we find ourselves 
entering upon an elevated scene, when the grand uer gradually 
becomes indescribable. Whoever had any idea that the Rocky 
Mountains could be so satisfactorily seen! What skillful engi- 
neering is liere dis|)layed! Truly the work of man conmiands 
our admiration, as well as that of Xature. 

What glorious views we had continually before our eyes; 
could we but have caught it all on a canvass ! All around 
this majestic landscape the high-peaked mountains boldly as- 
cended and descended, sometimes appearing to run into each 
other, then in an ojtposite direction, r.s the railway mounted 



13 

higher and higher, up the steep and heavy grades until a 
plunge through the tunnel landed us upon a platform with 
the culminating point of the Gorge before us. What excla- 
mations of surprise broke upon the silent air! Here, upon an 
elevation of nine thousand five hundred feet above the level 
of tl^e sea, Nature's painter und sculptor labored lovingly to- 
gether to give us one of their rarest gems. From what other 
place on earth does the eye range over more that is grand 
and beautiful ! 

Truly, if there are sermons in stones, there are in those of 
Toltec Gorge. Looking around us in the shadow of this 
eventful day's sun, what visions flitted through the mind ! 
Human trouble seemed but a momentary annoyance, yet, as 
the tooting and hissing sound of the engine informed us, 
that human happinesss was just an evanescent, for it reminded 
us of the fact that we must hasten to take our parting glances 
ere resuming our journey. We once more admired Nature's 
pondrous masonry. What a chasm extended between it and 
ourselves! We feared to venture too near, for the motion of 
the train had slightly toyed with our equilibrium, yet we 
dared for a moment to catch a glimpse of the raging, rush- 
ing waters in the great abyss. Little shrubs ventured here 
and there to sprout out of crevices, but these did little to- 
wards softening the stern aspect of the Cliffs. 

Here in the midst of Nature's work, standing solitary 
against the blue heavens, bravely facing the winter storms and 
kissing the summer breezes, stands a monument in memory of 
the beloved and lamented Garfield. For a moment this trib- 
ute of respect swells the heart with pride and sorrow, un- 
consciously forcing tears to the eyes. It was erected by mem- 
bers of the National Association of General Passenger and 
Ticket Agents, who held burial services on chis spot, Sep- 
tember 26, 188L A more solemn, imposing and impressive 
spot could not have been chosen anywhere on the face of the 
earth. 

We continued our journey once more, in reverse or- 
der, again enjoying the magnificent scenery. In imagination 
wo jieoplcd these mountains. How grandly villages would nes- 
tle in many of those spurs and declivities! How a convent 
bell would echo and re-echo among these silent hills ! But 
all was hushed. No sign of life, save now and then a prai- 
rie dog perciied upon its little mound, or galloping along, run- 
ning a race with the engine. 



14 

In this wild and picturesque Colorado it is said that per- 
fect harmony prevails among the rattlesnakes, prairie dogs and 
owls, who live together in one home. 

On our return to Alamosa, we witnessed a genuine Cow 
Boy performance, which was given for our special benefit, and 
which was enjoyed with such an extravagance of tun as was 
delightful to behold. Seated on Mustang ponies, they dashed 
up and down the street, throwing the lasso right and left, 
taking in men, dogs, and finally each other, with such dex- 
terit}'^ as could onl}^ be acquired by considerable practice. 
Although tall stories of the doings of these boys often reach 
the east, we were assured by one, not of them, that they 
were a good set of fellows. Dudes, however, must give them 
a wide berth, as their high hats make interesting targets, 

Monday morning, May 7, found us at El Moro station, so 
named from the castle-shaped rocks near by. Here we left 
the Narrow Guage Road, and were welcomed, by our very 
accommodating porter Sam, back to our old quarters, on the 
Atchinson, Topeka and Santa Fe road. 



Dear Courier : — The first interesting feature which arrested 
our attention after crossing the line between Colorado and New 
Mexico was the little white house of Dick Wooten. The 
Sante Fe Trail, which proved a bonanza for '' Uncle Dick" (as 
he is familiarly called) until its formidable rival, the steam 
engine, came on the stage, is seen for many miles. As the 
toll gate at Uncle Dick's house opens only after $1.50 has 
been dropped into the coffer, one would suppose that its cus- 
todian would, at the ripe old age oH seventy-five, be num- 
bered among the money kings of the west ; but not so. It 
appears that in his younger days, when money came thick 
and fast. Uncle Dick was numbered among the spoi-ting men 
of that day. Expensive trips to San Francisco were often 
indulged in, speedily diminishing the heap. 

The road here is exceedingly steep, so much so that it re- 
quires a sixty-five ton engine to surmount it. At 8 a. m., 
Raton, our breakfast station, was reached. As we began the 
day four hours previously, we were rather a hungry crowd. 
Our disappointment was indescribable when we discovered that 
we arrived two hours ahead of time. There was nothing left 



If) 

for us to do save eat the atmosphere, which we did while 
strolling np and down the platform. 

Near Wagon Mound we saw the first red man. " Ah, an 
Indian," was the exclamation which went the rounds and 
caused not a little amusement long after the object of our ad- 
miration was left in the distance. 

Between here and Las Vegas hundreds of dead cattle are 
lying around, victims of the freshet which visited this section 
a month ago. Our next halting place was Las Vegas. We re- 
mained here long enough to glean a few points which may 
be of interest, as well as encouragement, to the progressive 
city of Lebanon. It took the place exactly eight years to be- 
come a city. That number of years ago it consisted of one 
house, and that an adobe or mud house ; to-day it has a regu- 
lar horse car line connecting East and West. 

Las Vegas is amply supplied with water pipes and sewers, 
gas, telphone, in fact abounds in all modern conveniences. — 
Several very fine houses. Queen Anne style, are among its 
adornments. 

At 3 p. m.. Las Vegas Hot Springs station, situated six 
miles from the city, bearing the same name, was reached. — 
Here we took dinner and supper at the Hot-springs Hotel. 
The beautiful Montezuma House, which fell a prey to the 
flames last August, is being a speedily rebuilt by the insur- 
ance companies in which it was protected to the amount of 
t\vo hundred thousand dollars. Over one hundred difierent 
mechanics were at work. We went over the greater part of 
tlie building, and found it superior to many city hotels. — 
Here are found the electric light, steam heat, telephone, ele- 
vator, elegant wood work, &c. All this display in a place 
that can scarcely boast of a dozen houses. However, the at- 
tractions here are the great number of medicinal springs, and 
their charming surroundings. No less than forty have been 
discovered. Twenty-five ot this number have been neatly ex- 
cavated and walled up, so to as make them easy lor access. 
No. 17, one of the hottest, has a temperature of 160. There 
are two bath houses. The one most interesting to us was the 
one exclusively used for mud baths. We learned that patients 
usually take one bath a day, the mud being prepared in this 
wise: first, it is carefully sieved, so as to free it from all 
sticks and stones ; then a batter is made by mixing it with 
suli)hur water. The bath lasts from twenty minutes to a 
halt an hour, when a massage is used as a reinforcer. We 



10 

came to the eonclasion that a graceful yield to the tyrant 
Death would be more desirable than to fight him in this 
manner. 

Saturday, May 8, at 4 a. m., we had before us Santa Fe, 
the capital of New Mexico. At a seasonable hour carriages 
arrived from the Palace Uotel ; hither we were conveyed, 
where we found pleasant and airy rooms. The population of 
this city consists of Americans, Mexicans and Indians, It is 
considered a very healthy place to live, yet this statement is 
most emphatically contradicted by the figures on the tomb 
stones, in the silent city on the hill. Very few persons are 
buried here who were called to join the innumerable caravan 
at a later age than at fifty. This city is built principally of 
adobes or mud houses, which are more substantial than ele- 
o-ant. In the Historical Society Building are splendid speci- 
mens of ancient pottery and minerals, an old Mexican guitar 
and fiddle, a Pueblo cradle, filigree jewelry, and inmiense 
pieces of petrified wood (cedar and pine.) This wood is being 
utilized. When polished it makes beautiful slabs for wash- 
stands and bureaus. In the reception room of the Sisters' 
Hospital we were kindly niet by sister Sebastian ; but it be- 
ing Saturday, always a busy day w^ith them, we could not 
inspect the building. She, however, kindly took us into a 
neat private adobe, and we were surprised to find how cheer- 
ful and homelike it was. The walls are three feet in thick- 
ness, and very substantial. A modern window was pointed 
out to us, the opening for which it took a workman a whole 
day to cut. In >?aint Francis church, during the Sunday 
morning service, a curious spectacle was presented : kneeling 
on the cold marble floor, in clothing faded with sunshine and 
washed out with showers, many, with no covering for the 
head, save heavy rustj^-looking shawls, others with sun bon- 
nets of various hues, while here and there peeped gaily-colored 
ribbons of those more fortunate in this world's goods. There 
they come in hundreds to pay their morning devotions. It 
was indeed beautiful to observe how tender were the souls of 
these men and women towards the Virgin Mother. Though 
an indolent people with seemingly not a whit of ambition in 
this world, they have a reverence for their sanctuary which 
touches the beholder. Their principal article of food is Cliili^ 
a red pepper, something similar to ours, though less strong. 
This is prepared in various ways. Among the curiosities of 
the city are an old adobe church and house which claim to 



17 

be three hundred years old, and an old beggar, one hundred 
years old. You are asked to [»ay a certain amount to see 
the church. You are prepared for this. You step itito the 
old house gratis, but you are told something must be paid to 
o-et out. You are surprised at this, but 3T)u want to get out, 
consequently you search for a dime. The old beggar con- 
scientiously claims to be only one hundred years old. He 
micrht easily add one or two hundred more, and no one 
would doubt him, for he looks ancient enough to have been 
one of Noah's family. lie has vitality enough, however, to 
hold his hat for hours, in which you can throw as much 
loose change as 3'^ou desire. 

The atmosphere of Santa Fe is very clear; three miles be- 
low the city, the Sierra Blanca peak can be distinctly seen, 
although it is one hundred and sixty miles distant. The 
Santa Fe Baldly, a snow capped mountain, stands out promi- 
nently. On Sunday morning quite an assembly visited the 
U. S. Barracks, where an uninteresting drill took place. In 
the afternoon the military band gave an excellent concert in 
the square. 

We must not fail to make mention of that faithful patient 
little animal, the bnrro, which abounds in this place. They 
come down the mountain almost hidden underneath the im- 
mense pile of wood which is packed on their backs and sold 
for twenty-five cents a load. They receive little or no atten- 
tion from their owners. They eat anything and everything 
they can find, and thrive on it, — hence are very profitable. 



Dear Courier: — After leaving Santa Fe, New Mexico, and 
imssing through u dreary, dismal, desolate country, with no 
water, no vegetation, but myriads of boulders, giving the be- 
holder some conception of a terrific volcano disturbance which 
nature must at one time have indulged in, the train reached the 
station of "Wallace, N. M. Indians were observed running 
from every direction and congregating on the platform, their 
object being to sell pottery and bits of stones to the tourists. 
Tliose specimens of the wild tribe of the west were most em- 
phatically the queerest and dirtiest-looking people it has ever 
been our lot to behold. It appeared incredible that they were 
actually in their ordinary costume, and not masquerading for 
our benefit. They were soon surrounded by the multitude 



18 

that swarmed out of the cars, but the agent aceompan3'ing 
the excursion, evidently not desiring the Eaymond party in- 
creased, dropped a word here and there which had a magic 
effect upon the spectators. The Indian was immediately 
placed in quarantine. As we continued on our journey nu- 
merous Pueblos, or Indian villages, were passed, and wherever 
the train halted, if but for a second, one or more of the 
tribe, male and female, would make a detour of the cars, 
trying to sell their ware. A leper would have been about as 
welcome. Every object they offered for sale, whether large o" 
small, was the same price, viz: tin cints — that being their 
nearest intelligent approach to the English language ; however, 
a nickle was not despised, when a bargain was attempted. 

At Albuequerque, IST. M., where on May 10th we took din- 
ner and supper, we had an excellent opportunity of making 
the acquaintance of an Indian lad who had been given the 
advantages of one ot the training schools, those noble institu- 
tians planned for the welfare of this rapidly-diminishing race. 
He was but seventeen years of age, spoke English with re- 
markable fluency, and seemed to appreciate what had been 
done for him. Ilis responses were perfectly frank and kind. 
If we may be allowed to judge the race from this sample, 
then surely we cannot but conclude that they are as bright 
and intelligent a people as any, when opportunities are af- 
forded them to develop their talents. 

Alburquerque is a dull, uninteresting town, almost buried 
in sand. It consists of a new and old part, and is probably 
dignified by the title of city. A horse car line extends from 
one part to the other. Drug and jewelry stores occupy the 
same room. Nothing less than a nickle is in circulation. We 
visited the public school building, in which are four depart- 
ments. The children are taught English and Spanish. Some 
thirty little girls sang a Spanish hymn very sweetly for us. 
The schools are in charge of the Sisters. 

Between Manuelito and Allantown the line between New 
Mexico and Arizona is crossed. As we sped on through the 
latter, what a perfect enjoyment was ours in Nature's changing 
scenery ! For miles acres of sand beds are seen, with now and 
then a green waste, over which the Tiimble jack rabbit skips, 
with nothing to check its progress. Then, O beautiful to be- 
hold ! acres ot wild flowers — a perfect wilderness of purple, scarlet 
and gold! With what delicate skill and accuracy Nature has 
fashioned them all'. Now we come to mountain peaks and 



19 

rocks, producing the most fantastic forms, such as castles, towers, 
jiyramids, monuments, giants and animals, while the frolicsome 
clouds o'er head, sometimes dipping far below the sloping range, 
add a most exquisite and effective contrast. Thus the scene is 
ever changing. 

At the Canon Diabolo, where a beautiful and expensive iron 
bridge syians the deep, yawning, crooked chasm, a terrific flower 
massacre took ]»lace, in which hundreds of innocent little plants 
came to a sudden and untimely end. Although a very high 
wind was prevailing at the time, it did not prevent Nature's 
lovers from gathering between twenty-five and thirty different 
varieties of courageous prairie flowers, and at the same time 
picking up here and there some worthless fragment of the 
gorge. A yucca stalk, in brilliant bloom, was carried away 
in triumph. It was scarcely more than four feet in height, 
yet eight hundred and eighty flowers and buds were actually 
counted upon its stem 1 This specie of palm, with its beauti- 
fully lily-shapen flower, is found here in great abundance, as 
is also the cactus. To these plants is assigned the peaceful 
duty of brightening up the desert waste long after the my- 
riads of varied-hued flowers are left in the distance. 

At I'arstow we took our first Golden State repast. It was 
a memorable event. What a swarm of insects greeted us ! 
It was nothing else than the ubiquitous fly, hovering round 
and about us, exasperating us with their melancholy buzz. 
Long ere the meal was over, we concluded that this must be 
the winter rendezvous of the entire fly family, and we ar- 
rived before they branched out to their summer quarters. 

On our arrival at Colton, California, we began to realize 
that we were indeed in the land of precious metals, golden 
fruits and golden fields. Already the wheat was fit for the 
garner. What a startling contrast to the luxuriant prairies 
we had so recently seen ! both to be admired and enjoyed, 
both scenes well worth gazing at. Orange and lemon groves 
became numerous. Immense vineyards skirted both sides of 
the road. It is to be regretted that this is not the season 
of the vintage, for there promises to be an abundance of the 
1 uscious grape. 

At Ontario we came within a hair-breadth of having a 
terrible collision. We were waiting, as we thought, on a side 
track for the regular train to pass ; the fortunate discovery 
that we were not, was made when the train was already 
steaminor in. 



20 

From Pomona to Los Angeles the country is admirably 
tilled. We were very forcibly reminded by the eucalyptus, the 
pepper, the palm, the mistletoe, &c., that we were not in a 
Keystone State climate. The houses are most beautifully 
nestled within the shrubbery, and are so overrun with blos- 
soming creepers, and surrounded by rustic arbors, that they 
grow with remarkable beauty. 

We were nearing Los Angeles. This fact was made known 
by Sam, the porter, who began to eye one and all in a sad 
and anxious manner. We were about to part — would perhaps 
never see each other again. What would the harvest be ? Ln 
short, the brushing season was at hand, and strange as it 
may seem, so dirty were we that fifty cents' worth of mother 
earth blew off' of every one of us. Our dusky friend was 
happy. 



Los Angeles, May 13, 1886. 
Dear Courier : — It was not the station of Los Angeles, 
neither its surroundings, that monopolized our attention and 
admiration when we alighted at this city of the Queen of the 
Angels, but a panorama in which, though unconsciously, one 
of the most eminent of the tourists figured most conspicuously. 
The omnibuses of the Pico House were awaiting our arrival ; 
these were quickly filled to overflowing by those vvho were 
nearest to them. However, all could not be accommodated, 
hence it was necessary for some to wait for the second trip. 
A prominent divine, taking in the situation at a glance, and 
evidently not relishing the idea of playing second any- 
where, and whose gigantic proportions enabled him to detect a 
desirable location among the shawl-straps, hand satchels and 
umbrellas on top of one of the omnibuses, was observed to 
quicken his loose, shambling gait, and laying aside all clerical 
dignity, with one step and a half bounded lightly to the to[), 
geographically in a good position to represent an excellent 
burlesque on the Bartholdi statue of Liberty Enlightening the 
World. It was a sculpturesque, as well as a pictorial, departure, 
for so completely was he transformed to an outer world, that 
not a sign of recognition did he deign to offer, in exchange to 
a kindly social warmth which copiously flitted up to his a^'ial 
heights. This hardness of heart made the scene doubly Indi- 



21 

crous and indelible. Such was our triumphal entry into the 
Paradise of Southern California. 

On the day afrer our arrival, at 9.15 a. m., we were one of 
a party of fourteen who clambered into an immense five-seated 
stage, occupying one of the two choice seats in the driver's 
domain. Our destination was Pasadena, the most attractive 
suburb of Los Angeles, situated eight miles distant, and chris- 
tened the gem of this county. The four horses — Jack, Dick, 
Prince and Fanny — had an arduous journey bef5re them, but 
they neighed cheerfully in the clear golden air, as they bore the 
merry party along from whose hearts this soft exhilarating 
climate was bound to lift every care. Our road led us through 
Lincoln Park, which plot of ground was bequeathed to the 
city, and in which there is any amount of room for improve- 
ment. Here are found in great abundance the live oak, poison 
oak, pepper, English walnut and numerous other trees. One 
would suppose from the appearance of this wild spot, that 
game would abound here, but be^'^ond quail nothing is found 
within a radius of fifty miles. The "Raymond," a beautiful 
hotel built on a magnificent elevation in the center of the 
San Gabriel Valley, and which will be opened for the first 
time in November, promises to be one of the attractions of 
Pasadena. The scenery from this hill alone is worth a journey 
from the east. The Raymond parties will hereafter find this 
house their Mecca, as the limited hotel accommodations in Los 
Angeles have greatly detracted from the otherwise most attract- 
ive part of the excursion. We were considerably crowded at 
the Pico House, so much so that every nook and corner were 
occupied, and much dissatisfaction prevailed. It was here that 
small rooms yielded a big per centage. The " Raymond " prom- 
ises to be equipped with every convenience and luxury, and 
so much confidence has the public in whatever Mr. Raymond 
undertakes, that already nearly all of the three hundred rooms 
are engaged for the winter of '86. 

At the Sierra Madre Villa, six miles from Pasadena, we 
took our lunch. This villa is situated on nearly the highest 
part of the foot hills which stretch along the valley, and the 
farthest way round is the only way to get there. It is beau- 
tifully situated amid orange and lemon orchards and ever- 
blooming flowers. It is here that geranium leaves measuring 
nine and a quarter inches may be carried off. A drive 
through the famous Rose ranch and a visit to Mr. Adams' 
home were tlie principal features of our afternoon drive. 



22 

Here we were privileged to a;o to tlie orchard and pluck 
the golden luscious fruit. The Adams cottage and yard are 
marvels of loveliness. Here flourish ever-blooming roses of 
many varieties, the giant of all being a laraarque which en- 
velops the entire side and roof of the house, and the trunk 
of vsi^'hich measures twenty inches in circumference. All flow- 
ers and shrubs do well here; even the tender fuchsia attains 
a truly marv^elous perfection. Will those rose-embowered 
homes in Los Ano-eles ever be foro-otten ! In this sun land, 
what ornamentation the soil can be made to produce ! The 
grounds around the houses are arranged in a profusely orna- 
mented style, magnificent hedges of Cyprus, pomegranate, 
lime, geraniums and calla lillies, (of the latter we counted 
two hundred flowers in one stretch,) grace the city. During 
the Flower Festival held during the month of March, wagon 
loads of blooming roses were brought to the city. The Cyprus 
hedge is gracefully trimmed with mathematical precision, into 
various fantastic shapes; magnificent palms, with their fan- 
like branches, tower many feet in the air. A Palmetto, a 
century old, is pointed out as a curiosity. The old Mission 
church of San Gabriel was also included in our day's excur- 
sion. The cold interior contains nothing of interest. Dark 
oil paintings hang grimly against the roughly-plastered walls. 
The rude gallery at the rear is entered by an outer stone 
staircase. But four of the six bells which formerly hung in 
the tower are still there. The two missing ones are supposed 
to have been carried back to Spain as relics, they having been 
cast in that country. The beautiful waving pepper trees al- 
most hide the misty old building on the outside. The old 
Spanish woman who acts as guide to the visitors, and the 
opening and closing of the doors during certain hours of the 
day, closed the venerable old doors most indignantly upon 
our backs, and refused tho.se of the party who arrived later 
an admission. However, after a great deal of pereuasion, ac- 
companied by silver, the}- were again swung open and the 
rude interior inspected. 



23 



Dear Courier: — From the charmiiio; city of Los Angeles, 
with its beautiful sunny climate — the Mecca in which those 
blessed with ease and abundant means, can bask in spring- 
like sunshine and escape the discomforts of snow and 
ice during the cold winter months — this spot which excels 
in graceful beauty and general attractiveness — yea, from 
all this grandeur, coupled with an unfinished lunch, were we 
most unceremoniously and unnecessarily torn, Monday, May 
17th, to make the 12:50 train, which was to take us towards 
the beautiful Yosemite Valley. Again the sleeper Tahoe, which 
had grown dear (?) to us by past associations, was called 
into requisition. In this we spent the following night. 
Scarcely an hour's ride from Los Angeles causes a wonderful 
transformation in our surroundings. The beautiful valley, with 
its wav}^ golden tields, is exchanged for the dry desert which 
is brightened only by the abundant sprinkling of the yucca 
in full bloom, and a few strange flowers ot various hues 
scattered here and there. At 6 p. m., we arrived at Mohave 
where we had supper. Atter leaving this station the most in- 
teresting i)art of the trip was had in the moonlight, while 
standing on the platform with a kind and courteous brake- 
man ready to point out all objects of interest. Within a 
very short distance seventeen tunnels — one a mile and half in 
length — were encountered. As we emerged from these gloom}^ 
vaults, the transition into the outer world was enchanting. 
Between the stations Girard and Keene is the famous Loop, 
one of the most magnificent samples of skilful engineering. 
The road, after winding around a certain mountain for more 
than half a mile, passes through that same mountain by means 
of a tunnel, with the road but a few minutes crossed, right 
overhead. The approach to this Loop, with the bright moon- 
light enveloping the earth like folds of graceful drapery, with 
myriads of sparkling stars dancing in the firmament, with the 
wind gently swaying the branches of the trees to and fro, 
all produced a multiplicity of ornament which it is utterly im- 
possible to describe. 

At the station of Berenda, which was reached some time 
during the night, our car was left standing in melancholy 
silence upon a side track, which, long after daylight had 
broken upon us, was attached to the train coming from San 



24 

Francisco, and wo were brought to Raymond, the point from 
whence stages arc taken for the valley. We were still minus 
our breakfast, but expected to get it at the dining station 
of this cit}', therefore our first desire after stepping upon terra 
firma was to seek the long-coveted meal. We looked to the 
right — we looked to the left — then north, south, east and west 
— not a house was in sight, not even a dug-out. While en- 
deavoring to take in the situation as calmly as possible, our 
reverie was broken by a musical cry of "Breakfast ! this way, 
this way." Hastily glancing in the direction from whence came 
this welcome strain, we spied a tent with an annex of the same 
material, the former turning out to be the dining hall, and 
the latter the kitchen, of this pretentious edifice ! Stepping 
inside this movable lodge, we discovered eight tables ladened 
with the necessaries of life, hidden, as we at first supposed, 
under black tarlaton, but which when raised responded to the 
color blue — this chameleon-like change being caused by a fly 
stampede. It was not long ere the place was christened Fly 
Ranch, and a historical wag, of the San Francisco party, re- 
corded the fact that the place was originally intended for a 
campmeeting, but the Lord not coming, it was decided to 
convert it into a restaurant tor the Raymond Excursionists — 
that it was more profitable. 

After our primitive breakfast we stationed ourselves in close 
proximity to the huge stages which were fully equipped tor 
the long and tedious journey. There was no difi&culty to find 
our respective seats, as they had all been selected for us ere 
our arrival. Only five of the Raymond party occupied seats 
in the one in which your correspondent was packed, the re- 
maining six being taken by four gentlemen from the east and 
two from San Francisco, making, with the driver, a party of 
twelve. Six horses were necessary to initiate this load into the 
mysteries of Yosemite staging. The road was so level and in 
such an excellent condition that we began to treat as fables those 
horrible hackneyed tales of this valley, but long ere the shades 
of night began to overtake us we inwardly confessed that 
half had not been told us. 

The scenery during the entire ride was constantly' varied : 
the rolling hills thickly wooded with beautiful blooming horse 
chestnut, pine, live oak, manzanita, the gently undulating 
plains dotted here and there in the landscape, covered with 
beds of purple, blue, and golden; the graceful mariposa, the 
(|ueen of tlie wild flowers, appearing in the different garbs 



2o 

of wliife, yellow and pink ; all this display offered a pleasing 
contrast to the wide flat sandy stretch of the Mohave Desert. 
The great flume, sixty-five miles in length which is a V 
shaped trough for carrying timber from the mountains to the rail- 
road, was an interesting feature. The water flows through 
this passage so swiftly that the sawed timber floats down 
with wonderful rapidity. These troughs are as useful as they 
are numerous in the Sierras. The noon-day sun began to 
torment us with its most scorching rays. The dust at times al- 
most hid ns from sight, and played sad havoc with us and 
our possessions. The horses moved at such a snail-rate pace, 
and so many halts were made for their benefit at the num- 
erous rivulets along the wa}', that many ot the gentlemen 
started out on foot, while we of the gentler sex, with sub- 
missive meekness, continued to rock from side to side, re- 
gardless (^f the increasiiiff aches and pains. The splendid 
and refreshing dinner at Grant's was a welcome and delightful 
break. After this repast we again climbed into our ap- 
pointed places, the scenery becoming more and more rugged. 
Staging in the mountains was beginning to lose its poetry. 
Sharp and dangerous curves hanging over fearful precipices, 
around which the six now whirled us with a break-neck ra- 
pidity, caused the most courageous to become speechless. 
Through all this tedious tumult it was delightful to catch 
glimpses of the picturesque scenery, and especially to regard 
with veneration those noble forest trees. Water, too, was not 
wanting to add its charms to the scene, for numerous were 
the released mountain rivulets, w^hich often came crashing 
over the rocks, descending several hundred feet; and where 
trees or rocks had fallen across their path, most pleasing min- 
iature water falls would be afibrded, their gentle spray some- 
times kissing our dustj' faces with such a degree of afltection 
as would remind us of the fact, as we looked at our compan- 
ions, that were slowly, but surely, on the verge of being con- 
verted into terra cotta images. But all things have an end, 
so had our first day of thirty-nine miles of staging. We were 
sately landed at the Wawona House, at 8 p. m., a dusty, 
tired, hungry party, where we spent tlie night of May 18th, 
prior to our arrival in the valley. 



26 

Dear Courier: — At 6:30 a. m., in the morning of May 19th, 
after a refreshing night's rest, and a breakfast which left no 
room for fault-finding, together with an abundant supply of 
Faith and Hope mixture, we were once more prepared to con- 
tinue our rough journey over the Sierras, now made familiar 
to us by one day's experience. We were one of the party of 
thirty-three pilgrims, who were moving to and fro on the 
piazza of the beautiful Wawona Hotel, or Clark's, as it is 
more familiarly known, awaiting the arrival of the stages 
which were to carry us twenty six miles distant into the 
heart of the great Yosemite Valley. Ere the clock struck 
seven three stages, each drawn by six spirited animals, flew 
in front of the hotel with a grand sweep and flourish, put- 
ting to shame the timid-hearted traveler. All were soon a<;ain 
snugly huddled up against each other in their respective 
places, and off we flew, midst the farewells and good v islies 
of the proprietors and their aids. Our coach on tliis mem- 
orable occasion was a grand improvement on the one in 
which, on the preceding day, we had been tossed, tumbled and 
slammed until our muscles were stiff. This one \v;i8 of recent 
manufacture, and everything bespoke ease and comfort. Amouir 
the six horses into whose keeping our lives were anxiousl}- 
entrusted, was a little grey one whose imperious manner and 
cutting gait plainly showed a perfect indiflerence as to wliother 
school kept or not. lie at once attracted notice and suspicion, 
but the dignity and kindliness of the remaining five reassurd 
and comforted us, as well as the skillful handling of the ribbons 
by the careful and experienced driver, at the crack of whose who 
wbip they bounded lightly up the winding mountain path, passed 
the solemn-looking pines, the curiously-shaped and twiste<! 
manzanita, the old oaks — all a continuation ot yester- 
day's scenery, yet so bright and fresh in the sweet moun- 
tain air. Our course lay up the western slope of tiie 
Sierra, which we continued to climb on a steep, though 
easy grade, until wc reached summit rock, where we were at 
an elevation of over six thousand feet. Here we found vege- 
tation scant, and snow lying around in good-sized patches, 
while the giant trees, way down the precipice, appeared like 
sprouts. From this point we began to descend — the views of 
the hilly country became more grand and picturesque at every 
turn — the capricious windings of the road would sometinies 



:^t 



for an instant hide the horses from our sight. Those majes- 
tic primeval beauties, straight as arrows, covered with luxur- 
iant foilage, with the graceful green California moss lovingly 
clinging around the trunk and branches, present a picture 
peculiarly grand and inspiring. On we sped, without any in- 
cident ibreign to the ordinary routine, until the Thirteen-mile 
house was reached, where it is customary to change horses 
when going into the valley. The malicious little grey now 
began to show his colors, and to such an extent that for a 
few moments we were thrown into a feverish state of excite- 
ment. By some tricky manoeuvre four of the six horses 
were thrown on the ground, while the remaining two strug- 
gled frantically to extricate themselves from the kicking mass. 
Fortunatelj' for us, the stage was in such a position that an 
immediate upset could be averted. We heard the cry of "jump," 
but not relishing the idea of leaping several feet to the ground, 
with flie stage rocking from side to side, we paused tor an 
instant, when, joy to behold ! a jiair of strong brawny arms 
were extended, into which it was soon our turn to jump, and 
we were safely landed. 

The scene here was greatly enlivened by the meeting of 
the three stages, bearing those who, no doubt, inwardly 
thanked heaven that they had done the valle}^ and were out 
of it. Our courage was now on the wane. From henceforth 
we were confident our faith in Yosemite stage horses would 
bo exceedingly limited, yet scarcely one-half hour after our 
departure from this point, all fear was for the time-being 
wiped from our memory by the bewildering and startling rev- 
chitions of nature which sprang up from every side. We were 
being gradually schooled for the inefJable loveliness of Inspira- 
tion Point, yet when the sharp curve was made and we found 
ourselves face to face with the most indescribable vista it has 
ever been our lot to behold, we found ourselves speechless — 
not a sound was heard. It was all far beyond our fondest 
expectations. What a crowning grandeur is here blended ! 
No matter how rough and tedious the journey to this remote 
Art Gallery of Nature, the treasures here depicted more than 
compensate the horrors endured. Save the rumbling of the 
stages until a convenient halting place was reached, a solemn 
stillness pervaded every portion of the landscape. Even the 
clouds seemed to have gone to sleep upon the towering peaks. 
Neither pen nor brush can ever satisfactorily bring before the 
mind's eye a pictJire of this Wonderland. No matter how 



28 

bright and beautiful it is, how near its approach to nature 
may be, it will disappoint when compared with the original. 

The descent from Inspiration Point to the green level val- 
ley below is quickly made. The first of the numerous falls 
which attracted our attention was the long, narrow, graceful 
Ribbon which playfully gushes from the side of that ponderous 
mountain of rock known as El Capitan. This rock is 3,300 
feet high, and has a surface so smooth and regular that it 
must strike envy to the heart of the advertising wretch, 
whose brush and pencil would long ere this have profaned 
its clear bright side, did not the hiw stand guard. A tree 
scarcely visible to the naked eye, and which has the api>ear- 
ance of a pressed fern leaf, stands on this rock 130 feet high, 
and is nourished by a quarter acre of ground. On the oppo- 
site side is the Widows' Tear Fall, so called because its 
waters sometimes disappear in six weeks' time. The majestic 
Bridal Veil was tumbling and roaring with ever-varying de- 
gree, covering us with its spray as we drove by. 

On we went through this beautiful valley, which is one un- 
broken chain of magnificence, until we arrived at Cook's, one 
of the three hotels of this far-away place. Directly opposite 
this house is the Yosemite, (Grizzly Bear,) the Queen of all the 
Falls. We had it before us in all its grandeur. It was most 
copiously fed by the vast supply of snow upon the moun- 
tains ; the flow cf water was terrific; with a mighty and 
coEstant thud it kept leaping and dashing down the moun- 
tain side, plunging into the roaring Merced, which forces its 
noisy course so grandly through the valley. 



Dear Courier: — What an insurmountable barrier seemed be- 
twixt us and the outer world when we at last found ourselves 
safely stored away in the remarkable Yosemite cave, after 
passing successfully through the beautiful, dangerous and mazy 
routine of the sixty miles of staging ! 

Seated on the veranda at the Cook hotel on the evening ot 
of our arrival, hedged in by the steep surrounding mountains, 
welcomed by the stars and greeted by the moon, as they 
brilliantly and coquettishly emerged from their hiding places, 
spreading a mellow glow over the enchanted vale — the harmo- 



•29 

nious chords of the grand Yosemite Fall, mingling its music 
with the solemn waving and rustling of the branches, all 
combined to produce such a feelifig of insecurity which was 
akin to melancholy. It seemed as if we had suddenly dropped 
into a living tomb but on the morrow, when freed from all 
fatigue, we took a sixteen-mile drive through this magnificent 
crevice, we felt ourselves phenomenally invigorated and 
aroused to an indescribable enthusiasm. The grandeur, the 
massiveness and variety of scenery excels anything we have 
ever seen — all is so wonderfully beautiful. 

Bright shone the sun on the radiant afternoon of May 20th, 
when we visited the foot of the Yosemite, the Cascade, and 
the Bridal Veil Falls, reachitig the latter in time to see it 
gorgeously arrayed in five most perfect and brilliant rainbows, 
one of these extending; far out over the surroundino- toliace. 
This scene alone is worth a visit to this faraway hollow, and 
is one, when once seen, can never be erased from the memory. 

The appropriately-christened pinnacles of the sky-piled ma- 
sonry, such as the Three Brothers, Cathedral Spires, The Sentinel, 
North and South Dome, together with a countless number of 
others, were pointed out in rapid succession by the indefatigable 
driver, as were also nature's strange and grotesque caricatures, 
such as the Chief of the Valley, the Old Man and Woman, a 
train of cars, a pair of boots, birds, and animals, all producing 
boundless amusement as we passed b3\ 

The one great big hobby of Yosemite travelers is to toil up- 
ward from the green, lovely valley, to the dizzy height of 
one or more of the surrounding mountains. We had caught 
the fever, hence ordered a steed for to-morrow's cavalcade, the 
objective points being Vernal and Nevada Falls, on an eminence 
several thousand feet above our heads. 

Donning our soft felt hats, with which we provided our- 
selves for this occasion, when visiting South Tueblo, and with 
hearts made of unyielding texture, together with boasted her- 
culean strength, we were prepared to take our airy positions, 
not, however, before taking a drive to that magnificent little 
sheet of water, known as Afirror Lake. In this, one ot the 
loveliest parts of the valley, are found all the requisites for the 
picturesque. The lake, with its pure clear water, reflects in 
an inverted position the sky, trees, rocks, mountains — in fact, 
all surrounding objects. We were in time to see the rising 
sun glide over the perpendicular cliff several thousand feet 
overhead. This was a most gorgeous and awe-inspiring pano- 



rama. From here we drove to the foot of the rough and 
rugged trail, where we found our horses. These animals are 
raised and trained only for these mountain trails; they are no 
good in the valley, as we found by sad experience on the 
following day. 

Beseeching the guide to give us a good, gentle anininl, a lit- 
tle grey was brought to fill the bill. We had an aversion 
to the color, but allowed ourselves to be lifted upon its back, 
when like a streak of lightning it whirled us several times 
around. The onward feeling was still predominant, but we 
begged lor a less spirited beast to share it with us. It was 
for this reason that Shot Gun was forthwith introduced as the 
gentlest, slowest quardruped of the valley. We took to each 
other j)hilosophically. 

One by one, some twent}' in number, trudged up the 8tee]> 
and rocky trail, which was often scarcely more than fifteen 
inches in width, and so close to the edge of the frightful 
precipice that at times we forgot to breathe. 

We reached our first halting place at the top of Vernal 
Fall, without any unusual incident. We lingered in this 
neighborhood until our time was more than exhausted. W'c 
viewed the falls from various positions, never knowing a feel- 
ing of weariness. Here the water in a broad sheet rushes, 
foams and dashes over an immense table lock, into a huge 
caldron, casting its feathery spray many feet in the air The 
exposed rocks at the base of this waterfall are completely 
covered with the most exquisite moss; rainbows, too, add their 
charms to the scene. Mounting again our faithful little 
horses, we commenced work in dead earnest. We soon found 
that the comparatively easy climbing was at an end. We 
were still hundreds of feet from the higher falls, and a per- 
ilous and dangerous aspect was brought before our eyes, when 
we found courage to raise them heavenward fVom our already 
confused height. Overhanging us were immense crags, appar- 
ently ready to crush us into atoms, but in safety we were 
swung backward and forward up to the coveted spot. Here 
we found a neat hotel, known as the Snow House, opposite 
to which was that mighty cascade, the noble Nevada Fall I 
Here in dazzling fury a broad, continuous sweep of sparkling 
foam, whirls and plunges over the face of a huge precipice. 
We now began to contemplate the deep solem valley in minia- 
ture. It was precisely like gazing through an inverted oi)ei'a 
glass. Huge trees resembled shrubs ; rhe houses dotted here 



31 

and there appeared like infancs' toys, while the winding 
Merced was proportionately insignificant. At length came the 
final struggle ; it was time to begin the terrific descent, 
which, when compared to the ascent, was as a grain of mustard 
seed. What noble fortitude was required under these trying 
circumstances ! Never was more delicate attention lavished 
u[)on beast than was that of vV'hich Shot Gun was the un- 
grateful recipient on this memorable afternoon, for in spite of 
all the endearing terms showered upon him, he would tanta- 
lize us, and amuse himself, by indulging in an occasional genu- 
ine stumble, striking terror to our heart, and seriously dam- 
aging our courage valves. Inquiry as to the cause of this 
awi^wardness and unsteadiness of limb elicited the start- 
ling inforniution that Shotty was given to occasional naps, 
and that it was our duty to see that he was kept awake. 
This contributed much to the cheerfulness (?) of the occa- 
sion I We were now cteadily working our way down the 
steep mountain grade, constantly meeting short, sharp, terrify- 
ing curves, and as a deep yawning chasm lay before us, poor 
Sh()t Gun's back was most vigorously beaten to rouse him from 
his letliarg3'. There was no monotony in this excursion. — 
When we recovered our senses sufficiently to look around us, 
what jileasant surprises loomed up on all sides What a 
succession of grand and lovely scenes would at times imper- 
atively demand our attention ! 

IIow the terrified countenances of the companions in the 
rear would amuse us as they shot woful gazes at us, when 
for an instant they dared to raise their orbs trom otf their 
horses' ears; but any gaiety on our part would be quickly 
checked by a jerk and stumble from Shot Gun, who counte- 
nanced no such levity. 

What memories are recalled when we think of those horse- 
back journeys up and down those wearisome trails. How our 
hearts throbbed as our horses deliberately and leisurely walked 
close to the the edge of the narrow path, to nip the over- 
hanging branches., suspending us between heaven and earth 
in the uncomfortable space between the nose and the saddle!. 
Ilow encouraged and comforted we felt when the faithful 
guide came to our rescue, and placed us more securely on 
our perch, assuring us. while humorous smile illuminated his 
face, that v»e were doing nobly, and that the worst would 
soon be over. 



32 

Dear Courier : — After a copious discussion, in which the 
mountain horrors and the opinion of the outside world, if we 
would, or would not venture up Glacier Point, were carefully 
weighed, we decided in favor of the latter, and fully de- 
served the punishment we received for again undertaking such 
a foolhardy expedition, after our experience of yesterday's 
trail. 

The tan-colored beast into whose care our life was entrusted 
on this occasion rejoiced in the sweet name of Molly. Un- 
like Shot Gun of yesterday's companionship, she was a sprightly 
walker, keeping us in a constant tremor on account of her 
eagerness to push forward. 

In justice to our old and worthy friend Shot Gun, wo 
take pleasure in recording the fact that he was not thus de- 
risively named, but received this euphonious cognomen in his 
younger days, when he was given in exchange for a so- 
called weajion. 

The trail to Glacier Point is wider and less rocky than 
the one leading to the Vernal and Nevada Falls, but the 
ascent, 3,000 feet above the valley, is more precipitous, 
in fact almost perpendicular. Ere we had climbed 1,000 feet, 
we found that we had nothing more than an intensified rep- 
etition of yesterday's frolic. Up we floundered the steep and 
slippery path, until we arrived breathless, at Union Point, 
where with a sigh of relief, we jumped from Molly's back to 
allow her a rest, and to give us time to regain our senses, 
and if possible enjoy the boundless views before us. What 
glorious light and splendor shone all around this marvelous 
valley on this beautiful May morning ! What revelations of 
nature in rarest beauty were held before our eyes for silent 
contemplation ! IJow beautiful, how majestic, how awe-inspir- 
ing ! Yet when we turn away from it, if only for a one brief 
moment, how changed our feelings ! Then we recoiled in 
terror as we glanced up the gloomy cliff, where we soon 
expected to wind around, in the solemn, panting procession. — 
We rose higher and higher — our courage sinking lower and 
lower. We could now, if we desired, look down upon the 
barren tops of the one- and tvvo-thousand-feet peaks. 

O, the sensations ! the horrors of that day ! Indescribable 
are they as are the picturesque surprises which spring up at 
every turn. On, on we climbed, often turning pale and 



33 

speechless, the mind refusing to fix itself upon a single point ; 
but there was no turning back ; we had to press on. — 
Grander views were constantly opening before us, but, alas ! 
we enjoyed them not ! 

Finally, after a slow, steady zig-zag climb of more than 
two hours' duration, we stood 3,000 feet above the valley, 
and 6,000 above the level of the sea. Sup[)orted by the iron 
railing, which extends from one jutting rock to another, we 
had before us a grand, full sweep of the greater part of this 
mighty abyss. It is for the purpose of gaining the view 
from this advantageous position that hundreds of Yosemite 
travelers yearly climb the steep and dizzy trail. No one can 
adequately describe this scene. Away down in the narrow 
grave lay Mirror Lake, now contracted into a mere speck, 
while the tremendous Yosemite, Yernal and Nevada Falls had 
the appearance of long silver cords. Beyond Half Djme lies 
Cloud's Rest, which extends its jutting brow 2,000 feet 
higher than where we stood. In spite of all the grandeur in 
in which we found ourselves enveloped, we were not loth to leave 
the scene. A restles-i longing for the depths below seized 
possession of our soul ; and after our safe return to Union 
Point, where we arrived cold and rigid with fear, we deter- 
mined to give Molly a holiday, and in company with another 
undaunted spirit trudged on foot for nearly a mile and a half, 
until a playful mountain stream intercepted our progress. — 
When we were upon a footing in wliich we had greater con- 
fidence than in that (^f Molly's, we began to realize the beau- 
ties of this gigantic landscape. Although the scorching sun 
was beating its hot rays most unmercifully in our already 
bronzed faces, we cared not, and our increasing fatigue we re- 
garded with disdain. \V'liat a blaze of glory was spread 
around, above and below us, for we could now enjoy the 
dazzling blue heavons, so richly and artistically frescoed 
with fleecy clouds, as well as the valley with its exhaustless 
collection of treasures. As we approached the green level, 
we concluded to mount our horses agairi for a nice little gallop 
through the valley. tt was now that Molly showed a most 
treacherous disposition and displayed her pent-up emotions in 
a most unlady-like niinnor We had evidently insulted her 
by causing her to com3 down the steep prec'pice with an 
empty saddle on her back, and she was determined to resent 
the insult. No sooner had we reached the foot of the trail, 
when with surprising and terrific speed she plunged towards 



34 

the stable door, pitching us most unceremoniously on the 
ground. Such a sudden flight to earth we had not antici- 
pated. This equestrian feat closed our Yosemite trail performances. 

At six o'clock the next morning we were on our way out 
of the valley in rather a tattered, battered and tattooed con- 
dition. It was impossible to forget for one moment the horse- 
back rides of the preceding days, as the pitching and jolt- 
ing of the lumbering stage increased the one hundred and fifty 
aches and pains which we carried with us as souvenirs. 

We ao-ain enjoyed, in reverse order, the panorama of scenes 
of the beautiful Sierra Nevada mountains, arriving at Clark's 
a little before noon, on Sunday, May 2-3rd. Here we were 
thrown into a state ot intense excitement bj' the startling in- 
telligence that one of the stages of the preceding day bad 
been upset, and that some of our party were among the unfor- 
tunates. The accident occurred about three miles from Clark's 
Hotel, the ringleader of this commotion being again the 
young, little, inexperienced grey that had caused the tumultu- 
ous disturbance at the Thirteen-mile house the day wo went into 
the valley. It appeared that he being either annoyed, restless or 
treacherous, began to kick, which in an instant caused a terrific 
panic among these easily-excited beasts. By groat presence of 
mind the cool-headed driver urged the upsetting of the stage 
toward the mountain side. But for this thoughtfulness all 
would have undoubtedly been hurled down the steep precipice. 
The maddened horses struggled fiercely for freedom, which 
one by one they succeeded in gaining, continuing in their 
flight until bleeding, foaming and almost exhausted, they 
reached the hotel. Fortunately a clear track was theirs. Had 
tliis not been the case, a terrific smash-up would have been 
the result. This accident was aiJpaHing enough, yet it was 
miraculous that no lives were lost. Beyond a Yew painful 
sprains and bruises, no very serious damage was done. 

After lunch in the afternoon of this beautiful Sabbath day, 
in company with five carriage loads of passengers, we drove 
eight miles distant through the Mariposa Grove, to view those 
mammoth forest wonders — those giants of the west that have 
no known parallel. 

We were glad, however, when this day's programme was at 
an end. We had had a very hard week, and we now dis- 
covered that our constitution was not sufficiently rock-bound 
to equalize our ambition. 

A grieveous headache abbreviated the day. 



35 



Dear Courier : — Three heavy knocks, loud enough to disturb 
the dead, roused us from our slumbers at three o'clock in 
the morning of Monday, May 23rd, warning us that the hour 
of fate had come. Sixty minutes were permitted us to prepare 
ourselves for the remaining thirty-four miles of tedious stag- 
ing which still lay betvveen us and the bustling outside world. 
In the sweet solemn stillness of this morning hour, it was a 
doleful subject to contemplate. The heart of a doomed man 
preparing for the scaffold could not leap more convulsively 
than did ours when the thought that wie would again be 
knocked around like a ten-pin, flashed across the mind. 

At 4 a. m, the stages stood before the door, into which we 
were soon packed with military precision — not, however, be- 
fore giving an anxious glance in the direction of the horses, 
and up to the outside scat, where in compan}- with two lucky 
recipients of this seat of honor, sat that exalted dignitary, 
the driver. Botli horses and driver seemed to be in perfect 
harmony with each other, yet unbounded confidence was 
sadly wanting in us ; our souls had become weakened and 
disheartened by the appalling accident already chronicled, — 
But no alternative remained ; we were forced to put up with 
the inevitable, which we did with the firm resolve that if we 
were once more safe out of this region we would give it a 
wide i)erth in our future travels. The isolated Wawona hotel, 
so beautiful for situation, being built in a gentle verdure-clad 
slope bathed by the waters of a nois^- mountain stream, was 
soon lost to view, and the sublime repose of the grand 
Sierras demanded our entire admiration. The light of the 
early May morning was beginning to peep brightly through 
the great wooded hills, and the cool breeze that comes before 
the sun-rise became keenly fragrant with the odor of the stately 
forest trees. The exhilarating mountain air refreshed and in- 
vigorated eveiy faculty ; the unclouded sky predicted another 
fine day. 

The horses trotted so briskly and carefully along the beau- 
tifully picturesque and magnificent road that at times all danger 
was lifted from our minds, and we thoroughly enjoyed the 
thrilling and brilliant landscape, so richly endowed by nature; 
but all would be suddenly changed at the slightest crack or 



36 

creak of the old stage — noises uncomfortably suggestive of 
broken limbs and cracked skulls. 

The sunshine and remarkably fair weather which greeted us 
all the way through our Yosemitc travels, we found possessed 
disadvantages as well as advantages. Ere this day's bright 
spring sun illuminated the heavens, we discovered such an 
increase of pulverized earth that the solemn scriptural injunc- 
tion of ''Dust thou art and to dust shalt thou return," be- 
came disagreeably ominous. Great clouds curling and rolling 
above, and finally imbedding us, caused our solemn faces to 
assume a most ludicrous aspect. Thus extravagantly bedecked 
in native soil we reached our destination — the finest feature 
of the entire trip being our descent to Mother Earth. 

Ilow grateful we were when we were once more on a firm 
foundation ; when we w^ere clear of the risks and hardships 
of staging, and had achieved the magnificent triumph of suc- 
cessfully visiting the world-famed Yosemite valley 1 

Before our final departure from the sration of Raymond, which 
is still rocking in helpless infancy, we partook of another 
meal under the so-called "Fly Ranch" tent, after which we 
piled, without any regard to order, into the cars. The iron 
horse was fretting and turning to depart. The whistle shrieked 
once, twice, thrice, and oft' we were on the iron path to San 
Francisco. 

The scenery all along the route from Berenda to Oakland was 
interesting and attractive — magnificent farming land, dotted 
here and there with those luxuriant western landscapes, orna- 
menting the country. At Oakland we were transferred by 
boat CO San Francisco, where we arrived after a calm sail 
across the beautiful bay. 

The scene on the arrival of the boat is quite inspiring ; 
cabs by the dozen are backed up in long rows, while the 
driver of each vociferously shouts out the name of the hotel 
he represents. Our agent being on hand, we had no difficulty 
in finding our way through the deafening crowd to where a 
cab for the Palace Hotel was awaiting us, and it was not 
long ere we were ushered into the brilliantly lighted recep- 
tion room of this mammoth hotel, very considerably fagged 
out. What an enchanted scene here met our gaze ! Elegantly- 
dressed ladies flitted gaily to and fro to the music of the 
band which w^as discoursing sweet productions in the great 
glass-roofed court which occupies the center of this vast struc- 
ture. Our toilets, with the Yosemite dust still clinging to 



37 

them, were not in keeping with this splendor, yet there we 
were kept waiting 'neath the blazing chandeliers to what 
seemed to us an interminable length of time, before our rooms 
were assigned to us. Although twelve hundred people can be 
comfortably accommodated in this colossal hotel, which is an 
iron building seven stories high, studded with several hundred 
bay windows, and is said to be the most stupendous public 
house of its kind in the world, so great is the constant in- 
flux of visitors that at times there are no vacant rooms. 

This, however, was not the case on this, the evening of 
our advent into the Golden City, for after a long search a 
spacious room, elegantly fitted up with all the modern ap- 
purtenances, was sealed to our name. Here we (trunk and 
self) had a happy reunion. Only those who have traveled for 
one week in the Yosemite, during a warm, dusty season, 
minus this traveling auxilian^, can appreciate such a meeting. 

With an elegant supper, which gave us an idea of how 
sumptuously we were to fare during our short sojourn here, 
with an abundance of welcome mail matter which had ac- 
cumulated during our wanderings in the Sierras, and last, 
though not least, with a good refreshing night's rest, we 
found ourselves fully equipped to do honor to this far-away 
city. As it takes a good guide to give a genuine flavor to 
city sight-seeing, we we."e fortunate enough to find all the re- 
quisites in our good friend, Mr. John S. llittell, ot w^hose 
kindness we cannot speak in terms ot too high praise. 



Dear Courier : — 9:30 a. m. on the morning after our arrival 
in the beautiful city of the Golden Gate, found us saunter- 
ing leisurely along the grand and crowded thoroughfares of 
this remote place, now made so easy of access by a most 
wonderful net work of metal. We soon discovered that every- 
thing was carried on on a gigantic scale — everything was 
teeming with life, business and beauty. Its streets, which are 
beautifully wide, are lined on both sides with magnificent, 
costly and colossal buildings, that will compare very favorably 
in architectural splendor with the massive structures in the 
cities east of the Rockies, differing only in the materials used 
for their construction. Here iron and wood are chiefly used, 
as they are said to possess a greater security against earth- 



38 

quakes than brick or stone. That enterprise responds here 
quickly and promptl}' to all the requirements ol the public, 
is clearly demonstrated in its mammoth hotels, and its won- 
derlul cable roads. Eastern visitors need not have the least 
concern in regard to the nature of the accommodations that 
await them , for in every street are found extensive hostelries, 
many ot which have a world-wide reputation. Some ot the 
oldest and most important maintain family characteristics. — 
These see, and care little for transient business. 

Although part of this city of mush-room growth reclines 
gracefully on numerous steep hills, there are quarters, par- 
ticularly in the business portion, where scarcely a quarter of 
a century ago there existed nothinir more than huge drifting 
sand banks ; and many of the buildings on the level ground 
are on a foundation of piling. Water, too, at the advance 
of civilization, has been driven back to make room for beau- 
tiful avenues and costly structures 

The cable road, which can claim this city as its birth- 
place, was invented especial I3' for the purpose of overcoming 
the steep elevations, although it is equally successful on level 
ground. The ride up the perpendicular hill called Telegraph, 
we took in perfect safety and with the greatest speed imagin- 
able. As you rise you seem to hang in the air over the 
city. From the tower on the hill you have a grand pan- 
oramic view of the city and its environs. Nature has indeed 
lavished many gifts on the distant state of California, yet 
the most wonderful and important of all is the magnificent 
San Francisco Bay, which joins the waters of the blue Pacific 
at the far-famed Golden Gate. In its waters lie the islands 
of Goat, Angel and Alcatraz. The latter is beautifully ter- 
raced, and is a strongly-fortified island. 

Another never-to-be forgotten day and night view was had 
from that aristocratic elevation known as Nob Hill. Here are 
tound the palatial residences of the railroad Croesuses, which 
are an attraction in themselves. The homes on these steep 
hills required enormous labor and expense, while the climbing 
up to them on foot is a back-breaking undertaking, ns we 
found by experience. 

In the popular pleasure resort known as Woodward's Gar- 
dens, we spent several very pleasant hours. The aquarium 
here is especially fine. The collection of animals peculiar to 
California aftbrd amusement to both old and young, particu- 
larly its huge grizzly bear, which is a rare attraction. 



39 

A morning ride to the Cliff House, throuo;h the Golden 
Gate Park, was one of the most enjoyable features of our 
visit to the coast. The i'ark contains over one thousand 
acres of land. What was formerly a bleak waste of sand and 
scraggy hillocks has been wonderfully converted into a veri- 
table paradise. The trees, shrubs, lawns, and artistically ar- 
ranged flower beds, show careful and intelligent supervision. — 
The smooth greon sward is kept so closely mown that it re- 
sembles velvet. This must be carefully irrigated to keep it 
thus arrayed. The magnificent conservatory is filled with 
many rare specimens of horticulture. The Garfield monument 
rests upon a mound, in the center of an open space, from 
which point several neat })aths radiate. An inscription on 
this statue informs the beholder that it was ''Erected b}' the Of- 
ferings of a Grateful People." The landscape gardener has made 
several gigantic representations in flowers in this neighbor- 
hood. 

Before we reached the Cliff House we drove by a tract of 
sand as yellow and barren as the Sahara. This, too, will, no 
doubt, some day be redeemed from its original condition by 
an ingenious people. 

Opposite the Cliff House, in the ocean, are two huge rocks 
which nature seems to have designed expressly for the hun- 
dreds of seal monsters which congregate around them. These 
strange animals of the sea, so entirely devoid of all grace, beauty 
and musical accomplishments, apparently lead a most miser- 
able life. They seem to be a most war-like and gossippy 
family, each one struggling and fighting for the mastery. — 
Their unearthly, i»iercing noise goes beyond description. It is 
a mixture of a howl, bark and grunt. 

The Pacific ocean, as seen from the piazza of this hotel, 
presents a view superlatively grand. There it lay before us 
80 beautiful and calm, yet at times slightly ruffled, of a 
lovely indigo blue, ui)on which the rays of the splendid sun 
danced most gracefully. 

On a hill back of the Cliff are the Sutro Heights. Here 
Mr. Sutro, the millionaire of Mine Tunnel fame, spends part 
of his time in a little cottage muffled by a heap of shrub- 
bery, which, however, is soon to be supplanted by a magnificent 
palace, for the reception of which the grounds are already laid 
out, and fiowers of every variety bloom in extraordinary pro- 
fusion. An over-abundance of cheap statuary destroys the 
otlierwise pleasing aspect of this luxuriant spot. 



40 

Our ride back was over the Point Lobos road, from which 
we had a view of the Military Presidio and the Golden Gate, 
that beautiful portal of the setting sun. 

Oakland, so called from the lovely Calitornia oak-groves 
which once abounded here, is a fast and beautiful growing 
city on the opposite side of the bay. It resembles San Fran- 
cisco so closely in its streets and buildings, that the two 
cities may well be called twin sisters. In its beautiful ceme- 
tery we saw handsomel3^-polished marble and granite monu- 
ments, and numerous costly monumental chapels, but these 
works of the sculptor received only a passing notice, while 
the gardener's skill and taste drew from us exclamations of 
surprise. Hedges of the most beautiful roses line both sides of 
the long avenues, while beds of the lovely marguerite bloom 
with unsurpassing beauty. A solemn, lonely procession reminded 
us of the fact that we were in the city of the dead, other- 
wise we should not have been able to associate death with 
this lovely spot. 



Dear Courier : — The almond-eyed oddities of San Francisco that 
cluster in the quarter known as China Town are worthy in 
themselves a long journey to visit. They occupy a considerable 
part of the heart of this metropolis, and number in the 
neighborhood of thirt}'^ thousand souls. The traveler can here 
form a very fair idea of the life and appearance of things in 
the Celestial Empire, without being put to the expense and 
inconvenience of making a trip around the world — another of 
the many advantages that only the rich city of San Francisco 
can otter. So completely foreign do you find everything in 
connection with these John Chinamen that you can scarcely 
realize that 3'ou are on American soil, and not, as all appear- 
ances indicate, in Shanghai or Hong-Kong. The principal thor- 
oughfare of China Town is Dupont street. Here are found 
numerous stores filled with exquisite bits ol Chinoiserie, elabo- 
rate embroidery, splendid carving in wood and ivory — all dan- 
gerous baits for the tourist's purse, which soon grows painfully 
slender as the days go by. 

In company with a party of four, conducted by the ex- 
police ofiicer, McKenzie, we visited their haunts after dark, 



41 

and the unpleasant sights seen here can never be forgotten. — 
After going into their curious groceries, where everything 
they have for sale is imported, even to live fish and birds — 
their butcher shops, where you are startled to find for sale 
that which the civilized butcher considers refuse — their drusr 
stores, where the medicine consists of herbs, snakes, lizards, 
bulbs of lilies — their restaurants, witli their gorgeously deco- 
rated balconies, with lanterns and inscriptions — after seeing 
all this you are tully prepared to enter the private labyrin- 
thian passage, which will bring you through the green room 
of the theatre, and from thence on the stage. Naturally 
one would suppose that such an intrusion would interfere 
not only with the drama, but also with the audience. Not 
so, however. Everything is strange and extraordinary with 
these people. It was plain to be seen by the manner in 
which the house was packed, that the Chinese love their 
theatre. The men occupy the pit and keep their hats on, 
while the women are huddled together in a place by them- 
selves up on the gallery. Chinese etiquette resents the ming- 
ling of the sexes. The stage is a dreary, desolate-lookino* 
place. The -fixtures consist of a few chairs and a table. — 
There is no drop curtain, or scenery of any kind. The or- 
chestra occupies that portion of the stage back of the actors, 
and the performers smoke and sip tea when disengaged. The 
music is not of the kind that "will soothe the savage-breast," 
but it will set 3'our teeth on edge and cause you to start 
involuntarily. Their costumes are beautiful and costly, and 
their star actors receive as high as from two to four thous- 
and dollars per annum — so our guide informed us, but we 
failed to detect the star. In our estimation they were all 
alike — all equally ridiculously silly and childish. One-half 
hour of the din, clatter, clamor and whining of the theatre, 
for which luxury we paid fifty cents, was sufficient to cause 
our party to long tor a transition state, with the hope that 
it would be a step toward something better. Such, however, 
was not the case, for the opium dens were next on the list. 
In the two we visited we saw young and old men given to 
this deplorable habit — some completely stupified under the in- 
fluence of the narcotic. 

The most remarkable part of China Town is the manner 
in which these foreigners live. It is, indeed, marvelous how 
the}' thrive in these low rooms, impregnated by the most nau- 
seating odors. Some of them actually live three stories under 



42 

ground. In going through these cellars we were nearly suffo- 
cated in the close four air. Personally the Chinamen are fault- 
lessly clean. This explains why they can keep healthy in 
places where the sun and fresh air never penetrate. 

In the Joss Houses or Chinese Churches, we saw their hea- 
then manner of worship. The altars are decorated in a cheap 
gaudy style, with occasionally a costly piece of carving repre- 
senting some hideous god. 

In spite of their wonderful power ot machine-like endurance, 
these Mongolians cannot live forever, hence a funeral procession 
through Chinadom is not an uncommon occurrence. Of course 
these are only preliminary funerals, for after a certain length 
of time the bones of the dead are taken to China. During 
our brief visit we saw two of these peculiar processions. It is 
the duty of one of the friends of the deceased to sit on the 
hearse with the driver, whose business it is to throw slips of 
paper, representing money, along the route, to keep the devil 
away from the coffin. The mourners in the various cabs were 
enjoying themselves in smoking and watching the people as 
tliey passed through the crowded streets. With the exception 
of the hearse, there was nothing connected with this line of 
cabs that suo-orested a funeral. 

It seems an utter impossibility for this inferior people to adopt 
the habits of those by whom they are surrounded, so com- 
pletely are their own stamped upon them. That they are not 
an ignorant people is easily proven in their stores, where you 
will find shrewd, intelligent business men. We learned from 
those wh(^ have had extensive dealings with them, that they 
are perfectly square and fair in all their transactions. They are 
skilled mathematicians, which enables them to deal with the 
American [jublic, althougli they cannot speak the language very 
fluently. Their own unattainable dialect almost distracts one. 
It is said that che greatest evil which exists among them is 
their penchant for white children. Little babes, we are told, 
frequently disappear. 



Deaj- Courier : — The city of San Francisco has to offer 
among its numy attractions numerous large and well-appointed 
theatres for the benefit of the amusement-loving people. In 
the beautiful Baldwin we heard Lawrence Barrett, supported 
by an excellent company, in his unsurpassed impersonation 



43 

of Elliot Grey in the charming i)lay of Rosedale. In the 
Tivoli two pleasant evenings were spent in listening to Opera 
Boufie, in which the San Francisco favorite, and talented 
artiste, Helene Dingeon, very charmingly and gracefully took 
the leading part. In the California, The Golden Giant, one 
of those April-like productions, which cause on a most pro- 
digious scale, sunshine and showers at most uncomfortahle in- 
tervals, tried its magic ettect upon us. 

Although our time in San Francisco was exceedingly lim- 
ited, so carefully was our programme arranged by our kind 
resident friend, that we saw not oidy much that was of in- 
terest in the city, but enjoyed several delightful excursions to 
its environs. Ferry boats of a superior pattern and most 
luxuriantly fitted up, are constantly plying the waters of the 
magnificent hay. On the morning of May 28th we sailed 
across this inland sea, to the beautifully situated and favorite 
sea-side resort, Saucelito, where we had spread before us ev- 
erything which could gratify the eye and taste. This place 
is the headquarters of all the Yacht Clubs, and has some of 
the finest homes in the State. From here we had a most sup- 
orb view of the beautiful stretch ot water before us. It was 
truly a scene worthy of contemplation. The day was perfect, as 
are all the days in the Golden State at this season of the 
year. Tlie glorious sun kept ascending to a loftier height, 
until the surroundings were set aflame with extraordinary 
splendor. Yet there was an absence of life which gave to this 
hill an indescribable air of solitude and desertion. 

In the inviting suburb of Berkeley we saw the handsome 
University buildings and the institution for the the deaf, dumb 
and blind. From here we passed through a highly-cultivated 
country, on a horse car line which brought us to Piedmont, 
noted for its medicinal springs. The grounds in which these 
walled-up waters are found, are one mass of floral beauty. The 
stranger is strikingly reminded of his dut3' by the tollowing 
characteristic notice : "The flowers, ferns or shrubbery in these 
grounds do not belong to you. Do not pick or mutilate them." 
As true Christian lovers of law and order we reverenced the 
decree, hence came away without a souvenir. 

At Alameda, a great Sunday bathing resort, we witnessed a 
genuine western Sunday. The season, however, was not far 
enough advanced for the usual number or bathers to make 
their appearance, yet those that were venturesome had a large 
audience. 



44 

On Monday morning, May 31st, the day observed as Decora- 
tion Day, when the beautiful city of San Francisco was brilliantly 
crowded with gay and handsome military and cavalrymen, 
when numerous bands were playing mournful music, and huge 
wagons ladened with gorgeous flowers destined to ornament 
the lonely graves of the fallen brave, were passing through 
every street — during all this commotion fate decreed that we 
should continue our mapped-out journey and proceed on our 
way near to the quaint, dreamy sea-side resort of Monterey. 
Our course lay through the beautiful Santa Clara Valley, 
which is considered one of the richest and most picturesque 
in the world. The land is, for the greater part, perfectly 
level, and the growth ot grain and grass is astounding; while 
the flowers, both cultivated and wild, grow in masses, and 
are of such a size and beauty of color as to cause wonder 
and astonishment. The California live oak — a low-branching, 
far-spreading tree — gives to the country a lovely park-like ef- 
fect. In this valley the traveler can get the best glimpse of 
the agricultural wealth of the State as well as of the pic- 
turesque beauty of its scenery. Menlo Park, the chosen site 
of the San Francisco millionaires, is almost hidden by mag- 
nificent trees and shubbery. Senator Stanford's stock farm 
here is the marvel of the country. The horses from this 
farm bring fabulous prices, and well may they, for California 
horses in general are the most beautiful we have ever seen. 
What then must those be like that are reared in luxury, as 
are those of Menlo Park. 

San Jose (pronounced San Ilosay,) called the Beautiful cit}-, 
we reached at noon. We spent several delightful hours in 
this appropriately-named place. It is noted particularly for 
its magnificent drives, its lovely shade trees, and last, though 
not least, for its wonderful cherries. We visited a cherry 
ranch where we bought five pounds of this luscious fruit, 
which was of such an unusual size compared to the Lebanon 
county cherry, that were we to give dimensions we might 
endanger our reputation for truthfulness. Our drive took us 
out the historical avenue called the Alameda, the drive-way 
between this city and Santa Clara. It is bordered by a dou- 
ble row of trees, and many beautiful homes, with artistically 
arranged yards, may be seen on both sides of the road. We 
drove out as far as the University of the Pacific, and found 
here a beautiful structure, surrounded by a large lawn. It 
was Conmiencement Day, and from the benches, chairs, table 



45 

and organ which we saw in tlie 3^ard, we concluded tliat 
part of the exercises were held in the open uir. The State 
Normal school is located at San Jose. It is a lari^e brick 
building, situated in the center of twenty-seven acres of land. 
An immense establishment called The San Jose Cannino- 
House, docs an enormous business in the canning line. We 
found this city exceedingly interesting. It surpassed Los An- 
geles in climate and in its variety of fruit, for here peaches, 
apricots, plums, prunes, oranges, as well as cherries, grow to 
a wonderful perfection, while its wealth of trees, flowers and 
shrubbery is equal to that seen anywhere. 

A few hours' ride from this city brought us to our des- 
tination, viz: the Del Monte Hotel, situated one mile from 
Monterey. 



Dear Courier: — The beautiful day of May 31st was rapidly 
drawing to a close when we arrived at the Del Monte Hotel, 
one of the most delightful winter, : s well as summer, resorts 
of the Pacific Coast. This house, constructed in modern 
Gothic style, is situated in an extensive park containinor 
over one hundred acres of land, and is within the sound of 
the waters of Monterey Bay. The approach to it, on the 
stately and elegantly-macadamized avenue, with the balmy re- 
freshing breeze fanning the atmosphere, presents a veritable 
Paradise of foliage and flowers. Its dazzling splendor of 
floral display defies description. Here are tropical-plants in- 
numerable, while the heliotrope, honey-suckle, rose-bushes, 
geraniums and running vines ladened with a most extrava- 
gant profusion of flowers clamber adventurously to the dizzy 
height of from twenty to twenty-five feet. The Cacti bed is 
a study for those for whom botany has a charm. Here may 
be found every known varietj-, many of them in gorgeous 
bloom, carefully and tastefully arranged. Fuchsias grown into 
sprightly trees, with large and most perfect flowers, are 
abundant. In fact, in this highly-endowed locality all trees, 
shrubs and flowers attain a wonderful perfection of luxuriance. 
The temperature is so charming that plajits from every zone 
grow side by side with remarkable vigor and harmony. — 
Here also with intelligent and skillful management the liv- 
ing-growing flowers are fashioned into the most marvelous and 



46 

artistic designs, the chief of which at present is, the unique 
floral picture representing the Grand Array badge, which is 
intended to commemorate the visit of the G. A. R. to Mon- 
terey, during the present summer. 

Underneath the spreading oak, the pine and cedar, are 
found extensive croquet, lawn tennis and archery grounds, 
while swings, bowling alleys, a skating rink, and numerous 
square sand plots neatly fenced in for the benefit of the lit- 
tle ones, where they can amuse themselves with their infant 
utensils, are also among its attractions. 

The Maze, that little nook of perplexity, so intricately ar- 
ranged with hedges of arbor vitse as to cause those who enter 
within its precincts boundless amusement coupled with extraordi- 
nary exercise in their efforts to find the center where benches 
are prf)vided for those who grow weary and foot-sore in the 
struggle, allbrJed us a satisfactory share of sport. The bathing 
pavilion constructed at a cost of seventy-five thousand dollars, 
is situated on the sandy beach about a ten minutes' walk 
from the hotel, and is for the benefit of those who prefer a 
warmer temperature than the surf can give, and also for those 
who desire to take lessons in swimming, trom the teacher, 
Prof. Moss, who is always on hand whenever his services are 
requested. Although the Del Monte grounds contain a thou- 
sand-and-one attractions, the}' do not in the least detract from 
the beauty of the hotel, which is in itself a model of loveli- 
ness. As we entered the spacious reception room, on the eve- 
ning of our arrival, we found it beamino; with a home-like 
vsecurity. In the large open fire place neatly brushed and jiol- 
ished, lay crackling and blazing, large logs of wood, which 
gave to the room an amazing brightness; and as the shades 
of night enveloped the earth the brilliantly-illuminated interior 
presented such a spectacle of beauty and animation which it 
would be difficult to surpass. 

The day following our arrival we took a seventeen-mile 
drive through the quaint town of Monterey, and along the 
picturesque shore of the varied-hued waters of the Pacific 
Ocean. Monterey is probably the oldest town of the State ; it 
consists almost exclusively of white-washed adobes, or mud 
houses, adorned with green shutters. Its interesting abandoned 
buildings of historical fame were pointed out in rapid suc- 
cession by our extremely garrulous driver, who made himself 
odious by his eagerness to regale us, whenever an opportunity 
presented itself, with incidents of his life, which, however, 



had too much of the raanufiictiired flavor about them to 
arouse much enthusiasm. 

A large wooden cross near tlie bridge in the town, marks 
the landing place of the missionary father, Junipero Serra, in 
the year 1770. From this point the road continues through 
shady woods full of enchanting beauties, until Moss Beach 
is reached ; a little further on are rocks upon which cluster 
hundreds of seals, and finally Cypress Point, where a hair 
pin curve is made. From here a most enjoyable view is had 
of the two bays, Monterey and Carmclo. The grove of 
trees from which this point derives its name is of a specie 
peculiar to Monterey alone. These trees present a curious 
sight. Their huge gnarled trunks and contorted branches give 
evidence of great age, while the grey flimsy hanging moss 
adds nothing to their beauty. Yet the close-knit branches 
produce such a wealth of shade as to make this one of the 
most delightful of drives. 

The scenery back through Monterey to Del Monte was ex- 
traordinarily fresh and bright on this particular morning. — 
The beautiful blue-shaded ocean lay constantly before us, 
while the life giving breeze sharpened our appetites for the 
excellent meal which awaited us on our return. If we were 
to remain here for months it would not be possible to ex- 
haust all the charming promenades and splendid environs that 
this lovely place aft'ords, so boundless is its wealth in va- 
riety of scenery. 



Dear Courier •• — For the second time since our departure 
from the city of Brotherly Love it became necessary to divide 
the Raymond excursion party. The first division took place 
at Los Angeles, where it was necessary for small parties to 
leave in sections, for the Yosemite Valley ; the second and 
last, at Monterey, for the purpose of more comfortably and 
conveniently visiting the charming sea-side resort of Santa 
Cruz, situated directly opposite the bay and town of Mon- 
terey. The distance via Pajaro, is only forty-eight miles, yet 
it required nearly three hours to get there, as we were fre- 
quently left standing upon a side track until accommodating 
freight trains chose to drag us along. However, the ride was 
by no means monotonous. The azure sky, the flower-carpeted 



48 

earth, the sparkling billowy ocean, together with the merry, 
congenial party in whose midst it was ever a pleasure to be, 
caused the hours to roll swiftly by. On our arrival at the 
station we found numerous carriages awaiting the party, and 
it was not long ere we were seated behind the highl^'-recom- 
mended pair, Frank and Fanny, on our way to the Big 
Tree Grove at Felton, six miles distant. 

When in gracefully-poised Los A-ugeles, we thought it the 
most charming place in the world. Later, San Jose was re- 
garded as the spot on earth expressly designed by nature for 
the repose and pleasure of hnmanity, and, finally, with the 
beauties of Del Monte so freshly mirrored on our minds, it 
did seem like sacrilege for the driver of these two "i^5," to 
insist on it, that we had been wofully deceived, and that now 
only had we reached the beau ideal of a place in which to 
live. Here could be found the unadulterated tonic in the 
air, so pure and bracing in its effects, which snatches vic- 
tims from the very brink of the grave, for was not he, 
himself, a fair example of such ? Here the sky is bluer, the 
flowers more radiantly beautiful and in more dazzling masses 
than elsewhere; the mountains arrayed in a verdure lustre that 
words cannot paint; here nature has done and is constantly 
doing so much ; here the picturesque scenery in diversity of 
form and richness of color is beyond description. All these 
points, and more, too, did our worthy Jehu of the Benedict tribe 
bring torward to prove his assertions 

The road to the grove leads through a magnificent woods, 
and at times winds around precipices which fall sheer three 
or four hundred feet to the bed of the creek below. Expert 
driving is required to get in safety around the frequent and 
sharp turns. Sublime landscapes constantly shift before you, 
achieving, however, ttieir grandest triumph in the vicinity of 
the home of the Superintendent of the Powder Works, (the 
latter located at Santa (Jruz.) The mansion nestles upon a 
well-rounded, verdure-clad hill overlooking a deep canon, in 
which are found all the essentials for a perfect tableau. On 
one side of this chosen sight are the high mountains; on the 
other an elevation upon which are three terraced carriage 
roads ; while in the canon between, a meandering stream and 
a railroad complete the magnificent picture. Pursuing our route 
we i'orded the St. Lorenzo, a mountain stream abounding in 
trout, and anon, after ascending and descending numerous steep 
hills, we were astonished to behold the lolty wonders of the 



49 

gigantic Big Tree Grove— the most interesting and historical 
of which is Gen, Fremont, whose top towers far into the clouds 
The base of this tree has been chiseled out, making a room of 
wonderful capacity, in which a shoemaker's famil}^ consisting of 
four persons, kept house for one whole winter, and which" the 
youngest member of the family can claim as its birthplace. The 
Three Sisters, standing near by, though not so tall, are very 
gracelul and majestic in appearance. Jumbo in size and contour 
resembles an elephant. Col. Ingersoll's Cathedral consists of nine 
monster trees, branched out of an enormous trunk. The Giant 
the father of the forest, measures eighty-four feet in circumfer- 
ence, and has a bark two feet in thickness. A rustic bower 
called the Arcade, built on the trunk of a tree, comfortably 
seats twenty-four persons. Underneath the luxuriant foliao-e of 
these forest wonders is the favorite German Sunday resort and 
picnic grounds. 

On our way back to Santa Cruz in again passing through that 
beautiful forest of foliage-clothed trees of endless variety, vandal 
hands were laid upon the beautiful blooming azalias, foi* our 
beneiit. 

At 2 p. m., after a fresh and invigorating meal at the 
Kittredge House, of which repast the strawberry short-cake 
deserves honorable mention, our carriage excursion was con- 
tinued. We first drove through the thriving little town, which 
boasts of six thousand inhabitants, sixty hotels, and is capable 
of attracting from three to four thousand visitors annually, and 
from thence out along the noble road along the ruo-o-ed coast 
of the great Pacific Ocean, where its monster waves have eaten 
immense fantastic caverns, extending far underneath the bed of 
the road, making beautifully-arched natural bridges. With the 
courteous driver as guide, we were unexiDectedly enabled tc 
explore two of these subterranean passages, and it seemed 
almost an impossibility to realize that all this wonderful exca- 
vation was really the persistent work of the never-tiring waves. 
The beautiful bathing beach was the last point of interest 
visited. This stretches a considerable distance between the 
tumbling surf, and is covered with the finest sand, and is almost 
level. Several bathers were enjoying the luxuries of a salt 
water dij), much to the envy of our errant crowd. Derby, 
said to i)Ossess the enviable reputation of being the best 
!<wimmer on the coast, was a conspicuous figure on the beach. 



50 

Dear Courier : — The day after our return from Santa Cruz 
to Del Monte was delightfully spent underneath the frowning 
pines and stately oaks of this smiling blooming Eden — in 
gathering pebbles upon its rough, sandy beach — and finall}' in 
gaining bird's eye views from advantageous elevations, of this 
magnificent stretch ot green sward, with its noble trees, broad 
avenues, and its profusion of thousands of gayly-colored 
blossoming plants. 

From the hill on the oi»[)Osite side of the lake — which bit 
of water was not at its best, having become incorrigible, bursting 
its banks and sweeping away its beauties — we undoubtedly had 
the finest view of the day. Tlie eye is here arrested on all sides 
by strange and extravagant scenes. The peculiarly rose and blue- 
tinted veil enveloping the dark green foliage of the mountains 
made a phenomenal background to the overwhelming landscape. 
We wondered not, when in our rambles we chanced to find 
the talented artist of the party, Miss H., from Boston, endeav- 
oring to depict this sublime scene upon paper. Before our 
departure for San Francisco on the following day, we enjoyed 
a final view of this magnificent spot, so resplendent with 
natural and acquired beauty, from the observatory of the hotel. 
It was only here that we fully realized and recognized the 
wonders of the architectural taste and study of that skillful 
landscape gardener, Mr. R. Ulrich, under whose careful supervi- 
sion these peaceful grouTids are speedily developing into an 
unparalleled site. 

The evening of Saturday, June 5th, found us again snugly 
quartered in the great Palace Hotel ot San Francisco. The 
remaining few days of our sojourn in this city were pleasantly 
spent in depositing some more cash in China Town, in visiting 
the headquarters of the Fire Patrol, where every day at twelve 
o'clock an interesting and remarkable drill of a few seconds' 
duration takes place, where like a vivid flash of lightning 
everything is done so quickly that you see nothing — and 
finally in bidding our friends and the city adieu. 

On Wednesday, June 9th, we took our last sail across the 
beautiful bay, and were soon comfortably settled in our 
accustomed places in the Pullman Sleepers, ready to plunge 
through the snow-capped mountains of the almost inaccessible 
Sierra Nevada mountains. 

For a distance of thirty-two miles from Oakland, as far as 



51 

Porta Costa, we had nothing new before ns, as we followed 
the same route over which we had approached San Francisco 
nearly three weeks prior. The greater part of this time was 
spent by the mathematicians of the party in the unsuccessful 
attempt to solve the intricate problem in addition, which had 
its birth at the desk of the Palace Hotel, and which boldly 
confronted all those of the party on tlic adjustment of their 
bills, who had left the beaten path, and wandered into the 
Yosemite Valley. 

On arriving at the Straits of Carquinez the train was divided 
into two sections and taken across the water on the mammoth 
ferry boat called Solano, said to be the largest craft of the 
kind in the world. The strait is about a mile wide.,*iind so 
complete are all the arrangements that no delay is occasioned 
by this novel mode of transportation. The government military 
station and barracks of Benecia is directly opposite .this narrow 
passage of water. After riding for many miles through a wide 
and almost dismal stretch of low flat country, the valley 
becomes gently undulating, and begins to All up with ripened 
grain fields, acres of grape vines under cultivation, and numerous 
pear and apijle orchards, together with myriads of wild flowers 
blending their magnificent colors most lovingly together. — 
Before arriving at the large and beautiful city of Sacramento 
our hearts, were made glad by the pleasing intelligence, 
received by telegram, that the Capitol would be illuminated, 
and its portals thrown open for the benefit of the Raymond 
Lxcursion Party ; that the fine military band of the city would 
give an open-air concert in the park, and it was hoped that 
all would avail themselves of this rare ojjportnnity of seeing 
the seat of the State government of California. A rapturous 
applause greeted this announcement. At six, p. ni., we reached 
the city. The train, with its hungry freight, had scarcely 
ceased its motion when a waiter appeared on the platform 
with a huge cracked dinner bell in his hand, and to the 
ding-dong, ding-dong of this instrument of torture, wliich 
calls for noble endurance as well hungry crowds, we wended our 
way into the Silver Palace Dining Hall, where we were soon 
as busy as bees in a hive. After Ihis rejapt an hour's ride 
in the street cars gave us an excellent idea of its wide, 
regular streets, so beautifully shaded with magnificent trees 
with their mass of green foliage, its numerous fine homes 
surrounded with yards of blooming flowers, especially note- 
worthy oi which were the huge magnolias ; its splendid hotels, 



52 

its fine squares and churches. We lingered at the Capitol 
until the evening* lengthened. Ere the rays of the setting sun 
had entirely vanished, we ascended the dark winding stairway 
to the top of the edifice, to the melody ot the band, which 
floated through the open windows. What a beautiful picture 
met our gaze ! Who could accurately describe it ! From the 
cupola of this $2,500,000 structure the city unfolds itself in 
all its picturesque grace and beauty. 

When finally the shades of night were gently repulsed by 
the pure white flame of the electric light, the matchless 
panorama in the beautiful Park in which the people w^ere 
moving to and fro en masse, vividly suggested a scene from the 
"Arabian Nights." 



LETTER?. XlIXl. 

Dear Courier : — The night of June 9th was spent in the 
Sleeper, on a side track, at the station of the capital of 
California. It proved a most melancholy event. The Sacra- 
mento mosquitos discovered the necessity ot making our ac- 
quaintance. Suffice it to record, that these stinging insects 
are here in a state of dev^elopment commensurate with the 
general grandeur of the Golden State. 

The heated atmosphere of the preceding evening was fol- 
lowed by a raw chiliness during the night that tam[)eied 
seriously with the delicate vocal chords of some of the 
Eastern guests. The audacious early birds of the party made 
themselves particularly conspicuous on this occasion by aban- 
doning their series at the unreasonable hour of 3.45 a. m., 
much to the annoyance of the less-spirited ones, who by this 
smothered disturbance tossed uncomfortably until a more de- 
cided dawn of the welcome day appeared. After breakfasting 
at the Silver Palace restaurant, we again took our seats in 
the car, which during this interval had changed from a bed- 
room into a parlor, for a continuation of our trip on the 
magnificent Central Pacific, which ploughs its course so tri- 
umphantly u}) through and around the Sierras to the height 
of seven thouScind and seventeen feet, causing wonder and 
astonishment at ever}- turn of this daring piece of engineer- 
ing. A short distance beyond Sacramento we crossed the 
American river, upon whose muddy waters, before the hour 



of noon was passed, we gazed tVoni a ijciglit of over two 
thousand feet. Tbe snow-caiijicd mounta'.ns soon became visi- 
ble, and mining villages, with poetical and soul-stirring names 
such as Dutch Flat, Gold Run, Red Dog, Alta and the like, 
are rapidly passed. The train rushes on, iVantically clinging 
to the mountain side until it sweeps u[)()n a shelf made in 
this vast protuberance and rounds the picturesque Cape Horn. 
Here we had before us one of the grandest of all nature's 
grand displays, which was fully appreciated by the admiring 
group, who gathered on the platform, or looked hard trom 
the car windows, giving evidence of their admiration in ex- 
travagant terms. "Is it not equal to the great Yosemire?"' one 
ventured to say. "Yes," chimed the weak voice of one of 
the victims of the Yosemite stage accident, whose frail body 
was still writhing in pain from the effects of the disaster, 
'■'■and ine can see and enjoy it all ivithout being in constant fear of 
having our necks broken!" To the loft the perpendicular moun- 
tains rose thousands of feet above our heads — to the right a 
deep canon, bounded by bold cliffs sharply defined against 
the blue sky. The muddy American river now lyino- over 
two thousand feet below was dwarfed into a diminutive bund. 
The luxuriantly-clothed trees, appearing like shrubs from our 
elevated position, cast an ineffable loveliness of green as far 
as the eye could reach. From this point on to the Blue Canon 
the scenery is exceedingly wild and rugged. 

At one, p. m., a good substantial dinner was had at the 
isolated Blue Canon hotel, wliere the quantity and qualit^^ of 
food were equally commendable. At two. [». ra., we continued 
our journey, which became exceedingly dull and uninteresting 
when we found ourselves imprisoned in the costly solid snow 
sheds which protect this iron pathway from its winter enemy 
— the feathery flake. These sheds cover over forty miles of 
this road, and cost from eight to twelve thousand dollars per 
mile, and, where masonry was necessary, as high as thirty 
thousand per mile! They are complete in every particular. 
At a moment's warning any section can be flooded in case of 
fire. But a passing glimpse was ours of the beautiful and 
historical Douner Lake, which lies so peacefully in one of the 
most beautiful of the lofty basins of the Sierra Xevada moun 
tains, and which could a terrible tale untold of the cruel 
sufi:erings of the snow-bound Donner party in the year 1846, 
when out of a company of eighty-two souls, thirty-six perished 
of hunger and cold, the most touching incident of which was 



54 

the heroic triumph of Mary, the wife of George Donner, whose 
gentle, loving heart was tried beyond endurance, when on the 
arrival of the rescuing party her husband was found too weak 
and sick to travel over the mountains. A terrific struggle 
between a wife's love and a mother's love was hers. Her wnfely 
instincts triumphed; although urged b}^ her husband and friends 
to go with her clinging little ones, and being almost persuaded 
that such was her duty, she finally resolved that the strongest 
ties were those which bound her to her dying husband. AVith 
him she remained in this gloomy wilderness, helpless and alone, 
until death released both from their sufferings. Monuments have 
been reared to perpetuate the names of less heroic souls than 
that of Mary Dormer! 

At the Summit a grand winter scene presented itself. Great, 
mounds of snow several feet high lay all around. A vigorous 
snow-balling was indulged in by the fair sex of the party. — 
The road follows the beautiful winding Truckee river for 
more than fifty miles. Several frightful-looking freight wrecks 
reminded us of the fact that not all danger was stored away 
in the Yoseraite Valley. Truckee, the last of the Golden State 
towns through which we passed, will ever be remembered for 
its mania for hotels and drinking saloons. We soon ste[)pcd 
into the neighboring State of Nevada, and at Reno partov)k of 
an excellent supper. 



Dear Courier ■ — On the evening of June tentli, at 9.20, p. 
m., the train halted sufliciently long at AVadsworth, Nevada, 
to enable us to pay a hasty visit to its beautifully fit ted-up 
library, which contains a fine collection of choice works. A 
dozen or more of the famous Roger groups occupied conspicu- 
ous places it this far-away literary retreat. 

Elko, our breakfast station, we reached the following day, 
at 8, p. m. We saw nothing of this, the county seat ot Elko 
county, although it is said to be quite a town, with no less 
than fifteen hundred peojile claiming it as their home. Be- 
fore we finished our morning meal, a motley crowd gathered 
around the station. It was here that we saw the last of the 
primitive tribe, and a heathenish, repulsive-looking delegation 
it was. One of the squaws, with a papoose, exi»ected to reap 



a fortune by asking a foe for a look at her little brown tot. 
In this she failed, and in her endeavor to hide it from the 
crowd, she gave it such narrow quarters between herself and 
the station, that the little one rebelled, sending up such a 
wail, that a retreat, which was made in anger, was inevita- 
ble, much to the amusement of the miserly audience. 

Continuing our journey through Nevada, we rolled smoothly 
and rai)idly for hours without anything of interest gladdening 
the eye. Nothing was to be seen save sand, with here and 
there a forlorn and desolate-looking sage brush. We had 
reached the great sandy desert, which, when not even bright- 
ened by the familiar sage, looked like a great muddy ocean. 
A very hungry crowd arrived at Terrace, Utah, at 1.50, p. 
m., where full justice was done to a late dinner. One hour 
later we again betook ourselves to our respective jilaces. 

As if to relieve the monotony of the sandy barren stretch 
of land, a corner of the great calm Salt Lake, glimmering 
like crystal, soon came u[)on the scene. Indeed, ere long, na- 
ture became exceedingly lavish. The beautiful blue sky against 
the snow-capped mountains, with the rays of the setting sun 
drawing myriads of colors from this salty body of water, 
transformeil the desert waste into such a scene that would 
delight an artist to reproduce. At 8, p. m., supper was had 
at Ogden. Ere we left this city, its fine ojicn space 
around the station was beautifully illuminated with the Edi- 
son incandescent lamps. From thence to Salt Lake City, wo 
traveled on tlie Denver & Rio Grande. A prodigious sujiply 
of mail matter, wdiich the agent ot the party received at 
Ogden, and which he distiibuted immediately after our de- 
parture from the city, cheered the hearts of the favored 
ones. On we sped over this narrow guage road, the iron 
horse fairly flying in its haste to reach the beautiful City of 
the Mormons, where we finally arrived a few hours before 
midnight. Omnibuses were drawn up in a line to convey us 
to the hotel. Into these the tired, sleepy travelers were 
hastily packed, but a party of sixteen of us soon became 
wide awake, when the discovery was made that we were in 
the midst of danger. A balky horse was determined not to 
allow us a good-natured entry into this, the city ot the 
Latter-Day Saints. After a scene which beggars description, 
which nearly developed into a panic, and in which the erpii- 
librium of the sixteen was considerably unbalanced, the un- 
gracious driver finally opened the door and permitted the 



56 

frightened occupants to alight, which they did in hot haste. 
Naturally the commotion aroused the neighborhood, and the 
hospitable zeal displayed showed that we had fallen into the 
keeping ot a warm-hearted people. After a detention of a 
half hour, or more, during which interval another conveyance 
was ordered, we reached the Continental Hotel in safety. — 
This house is said to be the best and finest in the city. — 
Charity forbids us from saying more than that our accom- 
modations were emphatically below par, and that memories of 
the Glen Summit repast on the eve of the day of our depart- 
ure, thronged vividly before us during our entire sojourn at 
this hotel. 

Salt Lake City, the Mecca of the Mormons, is indeed 
unparalleled for situation. It lies in a valley surrounded on 
the north and east by the Wahsatch range of mountains, the 
highest peaks of which are covered with perpetual snow, and 
which form a boundary of unsurpassed grandeur. The streets 
are wide and ornamented with the most majestic shade trees. 
The houses are surrounded by yards which teem with 
luxuriant vegetation, and are gay with flowers of every 
description. A peculiar feature of the city is its water supply. 
On each side of many of the streets flow streams of pure water, 
fresh from the melting snows of the mountains, and wdiich 
is conveyed hither through the numerous canons. This water 
is used for drinking purposes, as well as for irrigation. — 
Among the most noticeable business places is the store known 
as the ''Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution," called for 
convenience "The Co-op." It is partly owned by the church, 
and monopolizes all its trade. It has a capital of one million, 
and an income of six millions. It has been in successful 
operation since the year 1868. 

Camp Douglas, said to be "Uncle Sam's" most beautiful 
Fort, is several miles from the city. In answer to the query, 
"why are soldiers stationed there ?" we received the following 
ironical answer, "Well, first they were placed there to watch 
the Indians ; now they must watch the Mormons !" 



57 



Dear Courier : — Eighteen miles from Salt Lake Cit}'^ is found 
that great deep blue body of water known as the Great Salt 
Lake. This Dead Sea of America was made doubly attractive 
on the afternoon of Saturday, June 12th, by the announcement 
that the celebrated and world-renowned swimmer, Capt. Paul 
Boynton, would give one of his famous and interesting per- 
formances in these waters at the station of Garfield, at six, 
p. m., and that special trains would be run thither for the 
benefit of the public. Many of our party took advantage of 
this rare opportunity, and those who were anxious for a dip 
in this said-to-be the finest bathing resort in the world, hied 
away at 1.10, p m. This remarkable lake, about seventy miles 
long and thirty-five wide, is situated four thousand two hun- 
dred feet above the level of the sea. Its density is so great, 
nearly one-fourth its weight being pure salt, that fish 
cannot live in it, and it is considered a difficult feat for man 
to dive into it. The station of Garfield is a picturesque affair; 
it is hemmed in on one side by a steep mountain. It consists 
of a huge pavilion, from which a pier extends far out into the 
lake, at the farther end of which is fastened a large boat 
called Gen. Garfield. This is used simply as a floating restau- 
rant, where meals and fluids are served at all hours of ex- 
cursion days. A little steam tug, for the benefit of those who 
desire a twenty-five-cent sail on the lake, lay anchored at some 
distance from the shore. To it was attached a row boat, for 
the purpose of conveying passengers through the shallow 
water to the miniature steamer. This craft, with two sailors 
on board, became the centre of attraction before the close of 
day. The usually peaceful waters of this great inland sea 
were phenomenally turbulent on this particular afternoon, so 
much so that it was considered unsafe for any one to venture 
in. The daring Paul, however, ran to and fro, personally at- 
tending to the innumerable preliminaries which seemed neces- 
sary for his six o'clock entertainment. Every train from Ogden 
and Salt Lake City brought crowds of spectators to the scene. 
But it soon became evident that a terrific wind and rain 
storm would play sad havoc with the neatly-arranged pro- 
gramme. Attention was, ere long, <lirected to the dangerous 
situation of the two men in the tug. The angry waves dashed 
mercilessly against the frail vessel. The row boat was swept 



58 

ashore. Excitement was raised to its highest pitch when the 
great swimmer, dressed in his rubber suit, made three heroic, 
though unsuccessful, attempts to carry a rope to the imperiled 
ones. The third time he rode over two huge breakers, and 
had mounted the third, when it dashed him back with relent- 
less fury. He was picked up unconscious and nearly strangled. 
The imprisoned men were not rescued until 4, a. m., when 
they were found in an exhausted condition. There being no 
abatement in the storm, the exhibition was postponed until the 
following day. Before we left Garfield it began to rain, which 
later turned into snow, and by the time we reached the city 
it poured in literal torrents. The following day was the Sab- 
bath. The sun shone brightly, and everything was refreshed 
and invigorated in this beautiful Garden city of the West by 
yesterday's rain. The mountain peaks, too, had received a 
new coat of white, and the soft sky was set aflame with 
breadths and depths ot color. 

The City of the Saints is divided into twenty-one wards, 
each ward being provided with a chapel and a Bishop. At 
an early hour we wended our way to the Fourteenth Ward 
Sunday School. Exercises for the children are held in the dif- 
ferent chapels in the morning, and services for adults in the 
evening. In the afternoon young and old go to the Tabernacle. 
Bishop Taylor, the shepherd of the Fourteentli ward flock, 
was unavoidably absent from his post, on this occasion. A 
sprightly Mormon dame gave the desired information, "he is 
not here, because he is imprisoned for polygamy !" Of course 
his absence was excusable. The Sunday school exercises were 
exceedingly interesting and the order exceptionally good. The 
session usually lasts two hours, but on this Sunday it was 
abreviated a half hour on account of Teachers' Meeting. The 
programme was as follows : Singing, (standing) ; Prayer, (sit- 
ting, the person oftering the invocation kneeling, with right 
hand raised); Singing, (standing); reading of minutes of pre- 
vious Sunday, after which the Superintendent called on four 
young men to distribute the communion. One of the number 
blessed the bread, (all sitting, he kneeling,) after which it was 
handed around in silver baskets, old and young partaking. In 
like manner the water (no wine) was passed around in silver 
cups. Duriog the distribution Mr. Murdock, Assistant Super- 
intendent of another ward school, was introduced, who made 
a short spieech, in which he stated that his object in visiting 
the school was to glean points which might be of benefit for 



59 

his school. After this address preparations for the lesson were 
made. The organist played a march, to which the infant and 
advanced pupils filed into adjoining rooms. The intermediate 
scholars remaining formed themselves into classes, and everj'- 
thing moved on regularly and in order. Our visit to the In- 
fant room was an interesting feature. Sixty little huds were 
here assembled. Their answers were clear and remarkably well 
modulated, and their singing excellent. The lady superintendent 
took special pains to teach them a lesson on purity. We also 
visited a class of young men taught by a blind old man. We 
were too late for the lesson, but one of the members of the 
class made a few remarks, evidently with the intentions of 
converting some of the party to Mormonisni. lie tried to prove 
that their faith was founded in truth, based upon the teach- 
ings of the Old Testament ; that as toils, })rivations and sacri- 
fices were endured by their predecessors, so they, too, must now 
Butter in their day. Before dismissal all were again assembled 
in the main room, when after singing and the i)roiioancing of 
the benediction they left the room to tlie music of a ijro- 
cessional hymn. 



Dear Courier: — Every good Mormon man, woman and child — 
whether old or young, rich or poor, lame or blind, together 
with the ever-numerous strangers within the gates, flock to 
the Tabernacle every Sunday afternoon, where services are held 
at precisely 2, p. m. This vast building is situated in what 
is known as Temple Block, in the city of the Latter day 
Saints. It is surrounded by a high wall, is oval in form, and 
its roof, which is seventy feet from the floor, is supported by 
tortysix sandstone columtis. The spaces between these columns 
are filled with large windows and doorways. A broad gallery 
encircles nearly the entire building. Within an elevated en- 
closure are three pulpits, raised several feet above each other ; 
back of these, high up against the wall, is an imposing organ, 
said to be among the finest in the States. The members of 
the choir sit in two wings, in the rear of the pulpits, the 
the men occupying one side and the women the other. The 
music is under splendid management. The choir consists of 
nearly one hundred members, and some excellent voices are 
found among the number. The dignitaries of the church, ac- 



60 

cording to rank, occupy the seats around the three pulpits. 
This great amphitheatre is capable of seating from ten to 
thirteen thousand people, and can be vacated in ten seconds, 
so complete are the arrangements for a hasty exit. The 
great vaulted ceiling is profusely and gaudily decorated with 
evergreens and flowers of colored tissue paper. This decora- 
tion was put up in the year 1875, when a grand celebration 
of the 24th of July took place — a day set apart in com- 
memoration of the Pioneers, and one much honored by the 
Mormons. 

Sunday, June I3th, found us numbered in the stream which 
poured into this extraordinary building. The services lasted 
until four, p. m. The sacrament, consisting of bread and 
water, is administered every Sunday, during the preaching, 
and is passed to old and young. The Priesthood of the dif- 
ferent wards take turns in officiating in the administration of 
this holy ordinance. On this particular Sunday it fell to the 
duty of the 6th ward delegation. As no less than four or 
five thousand souls worship here every Sunday, it requires 
the entire session to make the round. The meeting- was 
presided over by High Councelor Wm. Eddington. The choir 
sang : 

"Come, thou glorious day of promise, 
Come and spread thy cheerful ray." 

A long prayer was offered by Elder Arthur Stayner, after 
which the choir sang: 

"Ye children of our God, 
Ye Saints of latter days." 

Editor John Nicholson was then called upon to preach. 
There being a fine sprinkling of Gentiles or "-outsiders" as 
they are called, present, this Elder took advantage of the ex- 
cellent opportunity afforded him to plead his own case. He 
was in deep waters. Having been so charitably disposed as 
to undertake the responsibility of leading two wives through 
the vicissitudes of this life, he was thrown into prison, and 
was at present enjoying onlj^ a temporary release. He Iian- 
dled his theme in an eloquent and masterly manner — spoke 
plainly and fearlessly of the merciless character of the present 
crusade against the Latter-Day Saints. For nearly two hours 
he brought forward the weakest and most trashy of argu- 
ments, disgusting the ''outsiders" and putting asleep at least 
one-third of these poor ignorant and degraded people. After 



the singing of the Anthem, "0 Father, Almighty," and 
prayer, oflered by Elder Hamilton ft. Park, the afternoon ex- 
ercises were concluded. 

Near by the Tabernacle is the Assembly House, a small edi- 
fice used for winter worship. The Endowment House and Tem- 
■ pie are in the same enclosure. The horrors and indignities of the 
former have been frequently ventilated. The latter is a sym- 
bolical edifice which is nearing completion. Already over two 
millions of dollars have been spent on it. It is not in an 
unfinished state for the lack of funds, but for the reason that 
forty years were to be spent in its construction. In two more 
years the allotted time will have expired, and one of the most 
wonderful buildings of the present century will grace the city 
of Salt Lake. It will require more than a million of dollars 
for the completion of the unfinished work. Every part of it 
is to be of stone — a beautiful granite found near by, in the 
quarries of the Cottonwood Canon. When completed it will 
be a sumptuous and costly edifice, with a grand display of 
magnificent workmanship. 

Among the most interesting buildiiigs of the City are the 
former numerous residences of Brighani Young, the most elab- 
orate of which is the "Amelia Palace," which the prophet was 
building lor his favorite wife Amelia, hut died ere its comple- 
tion. President Taylor now occupies it. In the houses appro- 
priatel}" called the Bee Hive and Lion, several of the bereaved 
widows of the divinely (?) appointed leader reside. The tomb 
of the prophet is an astonishingly modest affair. It is in his 
private burial lot. A large slab of marble covers the grave, 
and a neat high railing surrounds it. 

Publicly the Mormons are a very social people. Luring our 
short sojourn in their El Lorado, we hud several interesting 
conversations with devout members of the church, and found 
them unquestionably sincere in their religious belief. We were 
assured that not all Mormons were [)olygami8ts — that the 
church only tolerates a multiplicity of helpmates when the 
courageous one is in good standing and possesses enough of 
this world's goods to justify such an act, (a statement emphat- 
ically contradicted by the outsiders.) Naturally the Mormon 
woman is anxious to get married ; for her religion teaches lier 
that the gates of the Joe Smith paradise, which she is longing 
and hoping to enter, will remain forever barred to the unmar- 
ried of her sex. 

A Mormon spinster is consequently a rare article. 



G2 

LETTER. XIIXIII, 

Dear Courier: — With the usual amount of shrieks and 
puffs and preliminary gasps of departure, the engine, attached 
to the special train consisting of seven narrow-guage palace 
cars, in which the members of the Raymond party were 
more luxuriantly than comfortably ensconced, steamed out 
from the station of Salt Lake City on the morning of Mon- 
day, June 14th. Nothing could have been more delightful 
than the weather on this particular morning. Mother Nature 
wore a fairer guise than ever. The capacious valley turned 
rosy in the steadily-increasing sunlight. The white - crowned 
summits of the mountains climbed up into the azure heights. 
Added to this tenderly - magnificent landscape was the ever- 
shifting cloud-scenery, which was watched with unabated in- 
terest by the inmates of the car Aztec, and only abandoned 
when the broad open country, with its cultivated fields, 
green pastures and thrifty-looking Mormon settlements came 
rapidly upon the scene. Our course lay along the winding 
yellow waters of the river Jordan, which connects the Utah 
with the Great Salt Lake. The waters of the former are 
fresh, and are three hundred feet higher than those of the 
latter. After leaving Lehi, a village with an abundance of 
foilage, and wholly built of sun-dried brick, the placid waters 
of Utah Lake came in full view, and we passed through 
miles of rich farm land, admirably tilled, proving that the 
Mormons are not found lacking in agricultural pursuits. Near 
the railroad a narrow wagon road, showing much use, may 
be seen the greater part of the way through the fertile val- 
ley of the Jordan. At 11, a. m., we readied Provo, where 
we found dinner awaiting us. Provo is the most flourishing 
and important town on Utah Lake. Beyond this point the 
rugged and savage scenery of the VVahsatch range bewilders 
the beholder. The train climbs eastward across the rocky 
hills, through the Spanish Fork Canon, thence to soldier 
Summit, where an elevation of 7,464 feet is reached. The 
high mountains were gay with trees and shrubbery of various 
shades of green, while the earth, too, when not carpeted 
with fresh turf, showed various hues of red, making a va- 
riety of gorgeous colors. At Red Narrows the view is mag- 
nificent. The wonderful conglomeration of rocks, pushing out 
in all directions, show evidence ot having been the bed of a 
mighty stream. The cliffs begin to rise higher and higher — 



63 

the narrow stream of the South Fork of the Price River 
continues its noisy course along the road. The sun shining 
and the rain falling at intervals, or in concert, gave a won- 
derful freshness and brilliancy to the enchanted scene. The 
road winds and bends in the most ino-enious manner, brino-- 
ing hew and interesting views at everj- turn. At 4:15, p, m., 
the iron horse moved slowly and majestically up to the two 
remarkable columns, those guardians of Castle Canon, known 
as Castle Gate. The train halted five minutes, to give us an 
opportunity of examining this truly inspiring and marvelous 
work of nature. The scenery in Castle Canon assumes a bold 
and imposing aspect: huge cliffs, rent and jagged as if by an 
earthquake, resemble hanging terraces, vast castles, gigantic 
forts, towers and pinnacles. The precipitous rock, like im- 
mense walls towering skyward, are ornamented with impresses 
like that of trees and leaves, on their smooth bright sides. — 
Sublime and delicate landscapes present themselves and retire, 
making the picture wonderously boautifal. At Lower Price 
Crossing, where we had our evening meal, we found a box 
of minerals from the neighboring mines, generously filled for 
the benefit of the party. A fair specimen of the mining re- 
gion, liberally saturated with benzine., entertained the crowd 
with the usual amount of western stereotyped sociability. — 
When the morrow's light dawned upon us, we had left the 
land of the Mormons behind us, and were hemmed in by the 
one-and-two-thousand feet high walls of the Black Canon of 
tlie Gunnison, in the picturesque State of Colorado. We 
dashed along between the solid, close-shutting crags, from 
whose sides now and then a miniature waterfall playfully 
gushed, until we reached that wonder of all pinnacles, the 
Currecanti Needle — an unbroken shaft fifteen hundred feet 
high, situated in the very heart of the Black Canon. Fif- 
teen minutes were here allowed us, in order to give an ap- 
proaching freight train the right of way. On leaving this 
point the beautiful leai> of water, named Chepeta Falls, 
sparkling brilliantly in the early morning light, received a 
well-deserved share of admiration. Breakfast, at the Black 
Canon Hotel, at Cimarron, on the hanks of the Cimarron 
creek, was finally in order. After our departure from this 
place it became very evident that the '■'■j^estUential nuisances" 
were not all "on the list." The autograph fever taking a firm 
hold on one of the vigilant ones, soon became alarmingly 
epidemical. The stubs, remaining in the long narrow Russia 



64 

Leather ticket books, with wliich each passenger was sup- 
plied, were ingeniously wrought into an album, making it a 
doubly-interesting souvenir. 

At Gunnison we halted a few minutes. This flourishing 
mining city is built in a circle, with a large plain between 
it and the station. The La Vita House, an imposing brick 
building, is a prominent feature. The beautiful orange, pink 
and purple colored Mariposa flower, so familiar in the Yosemite 
Valley, again suddenl}- ap[)eared upon the floral stage, and was 
welcomed with delight. At Sargent, where we had dinner, we 
were invited to one of the neighboring houses to see a snake 
Cactus, said to be a rare specimen of the Cacti family. It 
had been found several Sundays previous by the happy pos- 
sessor, while crossing the prairies. 



Dear Courier: — 'Proceeding on our journey from Sargent, Col., 
Tuesday afternoon, June lo, we commenced the ascent of the 
Rocky Mountains in good earnest. The train was again di- 
vided into two sections, to which were attached ponderous en- 
gines, which glided easily and rapidly around the numerous 
curves of this wild mountain route, the audacious grades of 
which are something almost beyond belief, some of them 
being from two hundred and eleven to two hundred and twenty 
feet to the mile. After passing through seven miles ot snow 
sheds we reached Marshall Pass at an elevation of 10,820 feet. 
To acquire this height the tracks winds, twines and curves 
over this stupendous range in the most intricate and bewil- 
dering manner. At one point it actually climbs six miles 
around to gain a position, only a few rods in a direct line 
trom its former position. The wild mountain scenery stirs 
the beholder with awe. The towering bald head of Mount 
Ouray, which has an elevation of 14,055 feet, is readily dis- 
tinguished from the numerous projectinoj peaks which surround 
it, and the beautitul snowy peaks of the Sierra Blanca, with 
marvelous grandeur way off in the wondrously clear distance, 
are again gracefully shifted upon the scene. After riding for 
miles through the loveliest of ever-changing mountain scenery, 
which almost paralyzes the beholder with its awful grandeur, 
the train descends the Poncho Pass, at the foot of which 



f 



65 

re'sts the picturesque little village of Fonclio Springs, and soon 
steams into the brisk town of Salida. On our arrival here 
we found a huge white trained bear attracting the attention 
of the bystanders, but this performance soon terminated most 
ignominiouslj, much to the chagrin of the master of ceremo- 
nies, and the amusement of the audience. During the graceful 
(?) dancing of the polka an inquisitive little canine stepped 
upon bruin's coda, which cccasioned a scene impossible to por- 
tray. 

After supper at the Monte Cristo Hotel we took a walk 
across the Arkansas River, up to the upper end of the prin- 
cipal street ot this prettily-hemmed-in place. This town was 
formerly known as Lower Arkansas. It is rapidly developing 
into a place of importance. The weather is one of its pecu- 
liarities, its winters being phenomenally mild. On our return 
to the iiotel we learned that the most important personage 
of the State ot Colorado, politically s[)eaking, had arrived, viz : 
Gov. Eaton. After securing a glimpse of this portly magis- 
trate, we turned back to our car, where we found the jiorter 
busily engaged in arranging the interior for our night's lodg- 
ing. After a six o'clock breakfast the following morning we 
left Salida, and soon enjoyed a mingling of bold and pictur- 
esque scenes. For nearly one hundred miles the Arkansas 
river breaks along the side of the road, now placid, then a 
large roaring, foaming, swelling stream. The scenery in the 
ten-mile gorge, known as the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, 
and the Royal gorge, eclipses in grandeur, all hitherto seen. 
High above us rose immense red granite rocks, attaining the 
wonderful height of two thousand feet, ornamented in a few 
favored places by trees and shrubs. Tiie skill of the engineer, 
as displa3'ed in this gorge, is truly miraculous. At one place 
where there is room for only the river, a bridge is ingeni- 
ously huvg^ the strong su[)ports of which are stretched across 
the chasm. After leaving this abyss we soon enter Canon 
City, noted for its neatly walled-up soda springs and its 
large State penitentiary. Between here and South Pueblo, curi- 
ous and numerous ridges of rocks are seen. The weather be- 
came intensely warm as we neared South Pueblo. After dinner, 
which we had at the station dining rooms of this city, we 
were glad to hasten away to the cool and inviting retreat of 
Manitou, where we arrived early in the evening of the same 
day. This renowned summer resort has been christened the 
iSaratoga of the West. It is noted for the medicinal quali- 



66 

ties of its numerous springs, and is surrounded by some of the 
most magnificent scenery in America. It rests under the snow- 
crowned summit of Pike's Peak, at an elevation of 6,297 feet. 
A playful, boiling little stream, called the Fontaine qui-Bouille, 
gayly washes its way through the rocky town. It already con- 
sists of eight hundred inhibitants, and has three churches — 
the Episcopal, Congregational and Catholic — to keep the flock 
from going astray 

During our three days' sojourn here, a "provided" carriage 
drive took us to the Garden of the Gods, the Ute Pass, 
Rainbow Falh, and the Mineral Springs. The Garden of the 
Gods is owned by a Mr. Potter, from Chicago. It contains 
a wonderful collection of interesting and amusing natural 
rock ornaments, the most peculiar of whicli are the red sand 
stone columns at the entrance, which are three hundred and 
eighty feet high. Among the attractions wrought by the 
action of the wind and rain, are the Tower of Babel, a Ca- 
thedral three hundred and thirty feet high, a seal, a Polar 
bear, mushrooms and toad-stools, Balance rock, profile of Ben 
Butler, Siamese Twins, Ant Eater, Lady of the Garder, Echo 
Cave, (where a most remarkable and astonishing echo c;in be 
awakened,) heads of animals, such as the buffalo, lion and 
deer, and a host, of others too numerous to mention. From 
here our drive took ns to Glen Eyrie, where we saw the 
eagles' nests ; also, the isolated home of Gen. Potter, which 
consists of a magnificent red sand stone mansion, with corre- 
sponding stables, situated in a perfect wilderness ; save the 
beautiful green lawn, sprinkled with flower beds, immediately 
in front of the villa, a melancholy air of desolation pervades 
the whole. 

The next morning, June 18, was profitably employed in 
visiting Colorado Sj»rings, five miles distance. Our course 
took us through the once-destined-to-be-capital-of-the-State, bi^t 
now merely a deserted country village of Colorado City. 

Colorado Springs, which place by the way received its 
name from the springs found at Manitou, is, on the whole, 
the most beautifully-planned and handsomely-built town it 
has ever been our lot to visit. It fairly sparkles with clean- 
liness, culture and refinement. Some of the avenues are quite 
Parisian-like in appearance, having double carriage ways sep- 
arated by rows of beautiful trees. It abounds in handsome 
churches, school houses, private residences and hotels. Horse- 
back riding and carriage-driving are extravagantly indulged 



67 

in by the old and young of this highly-adorned town. The 
home of Helen Ilunt, the authoress, was one of interest 
to our party. In a cottage peeping out from luxuriant foli- 
age and partly-concealed by neglected shrubbery, this talented 
lady spent the last days of her life. Her monument is the 
yonder towering Cheyenne Mountain, where according to her 
desire, she was buried. 

The country between Colorado Springs and Manitou is highly 
cultivated. Many large and beautiful ranches may be seen, 
while the scenery all around is grand beyond description. 



Dear Courier: — As the mountain-trail climbing passion which 
once dwelt in our bosom had become extinct since our Yo 
Semite Valley experiences, we were content to leave the sum- 
mit of Pike's Teak all unbereft of its mystery and grandeur, 
and confine our wanderings in the quiet valley, with that 
snow-crowned "beacon of '59" our constant attendant. It 
was no disappoititment to us, when we learned from a relia- 
able source, that the trail was in an exceedingly rough and 
<langerous condition — so much so that it was deemed imprudent 
for the ladies ot the party to attempt the ascent. Only one 
member of our car family |)Ossessed enough enterprise and vigor 
to scale the rocky heights. His dejected appearance, together 
with his grulf, "I would not do it again for twenty-five dol- 
lars !" were [iroof positive ol a hard day's struggle. 

The illusive power of the pure Colorado atmosphere is start- 
ling and remarkable. In the clear sky it is impossible to real- 
ize distances ; only the perpetual snow lodged upon the sur- 
rounding peaks indicate the great distance and height which 
separate them from the valley. 

At eight o'clock on the bright and poetic morning of 
June 19th, we were borne away from the cool and inviting 
retreat of Manitou, which was left with universal regret, and 
hastened on to Denver, the "Queen City of the Plains," where 
we arrived at precisely twelve o'clock. This four hours' journey 
in the stillest and sweetest of summer mornings, was a mem- 
orable one. The "sleepers" were abandoned for the comfort- 
able reclining chair cars, an innovation duly appreciated by 



68 

oue and all. The entire scenery of this road is interesting 
and grand. The numerous foothills, bedecked with the rarest 
of wild flowers, conspicuous among which was the beautiful 
white poppy, were full of extravagant and pleasant surprises. 
At Divide, where a gem of water known as Palmer Lake is 
found, we were privileged to spend a few minutes. This 
cold, clear lake has great attractiveness as a summer resort. 
Owing to its elevation, (7,544 feet,) the temperature in its 
vicinity is remarkably cool and pleasant during the warmest 
days of the hot season. The ornamental little depot received 
its share of superlative expressions of admiration. Denver, 
the capital of this mountainous State, tlie city of magic 
growth, is finely loc;ited on the great plains, with the Kocky 
mountains twelve miles distance at their nearest point, yet at 
times having the ajipcaiance of being within easy walking 
distance. A three-hours' carriage ride, with an exceedingly 
comnmnicative ex-cow boy driver, gave us a fair idea of this 
progressive metroi)olis. The view from ('apitol Hill is marvcl- 
ously grand — the ever-changing panorun)a of exquisite moun- 
tain scenery, is forever spread before the occupants of the 
palatial residences which beautify this once-barren hill, por- 
tions of which, not so many years ago, could be purchased 
for a meie song, now bring fabulous prices. The elegant 
wide streets are lined on both sides, for many blocks, with 
magnificent private residences, many of which are surrounded 
with extensive lawns, which are so neatly and artistically 
mown that their resemblance to green plusii is wonderfully 
l)erfect. There is an absence, however, of luxuriant shrubbery 
and profusion of flower beds, which till the yards of the cities 
farther west. Many ot the public buildings are n)odels of 
architecture, the most prominent being the Tabor Grand Opera 
House, which is considered the finest structure of its kind in 
America. Six hundred thousand dollars were spent in its con- 
struction. It is comi)lete in every respect. We saw it in 
all its splendor on the occasion of a minstrel pertormance. The 
court house, constructed at a cost of three hundred and thir- 
ty-seven thousand dollars, is a noteworthy edifice. We were 
very courteously conducted through the building, and enjoyed 
a rare view of the city from its dome. 

In the smelting works in the immediate vicinity an enor- 
mous amount of mountain traffic is done. We visited the 
Argo, which is the larger and more interesting of the two. 
\Vv found foreign clement largely employed in these works, 



()9 

which made our visit exceedingly iini)rofitablc, as we were 
iinacconiiianied by a guide. 

On Sunday, June 20th, the St. John's ('athedral was filled 
to overfiowing to hear the Eev. Phillips Brooks, of Trinity 
church, Boston. As this noted divine was one of the Ray- 
mond excursionists, it had the tendency of gathering together 
nearly the entire band of travelers. The speaker's subject was, 
"Learning to Know People," founded u[)on the twent^^-second 
verse of the fourteenth chapter of St. John. The music on 
this occasion was of the highest order, and was most excellently 
rendered. 

An excursion up Clear Creek Canon to Idaho Springs, George- 
town and Silver Plume, occupied the entire day of the follow- 
ing Tuesday. The railway through this prolific silver region is 
so tortuous that the most wonderful engine-sp>inning on record 
is here indulged in. The road crosses and recrosses itself at 
will. At one point it may be seen five times. The mountain 
scenery is wonderfully wild and rugged. Here savage Nature 
reigns supreme. Engulfed amidst lofty and magnificent rock- 
work in park-like reservations, with very little room to spread 
themselves, are found thrifty mining towns, bearing an aspect, 
however, far from inviting. Beyond Georgetown the road forms 
a complete loop, the line crossing itself by a bridge ninety 
feet high. The view of the valley from this lofty point is 
equaled by tew, if any, in the world. The visit into the silver 
mine, at Brownville, was a decided failure, for the majority of 
the party, owing to its muddy condition and carefully-stored - 
away rubbers in trunks and valises at the station of Denver 
some fifty miles distant. 

Among these grandl}' - conspicuous groups of mountains 
nothing is more touchingly sad than are the forlorn and des- 
olate-looking graveyards w-hich are occasionally shifted upon the 
scene. On our return to Georgetown we took dinner at the 
Barton House, after which we zig-zagged back to Denver, where 
supper was had at six, p, m., at the station dining room. 



70 

Dear Courier : — The sleeper Ogalalla was the one destined to 
carry us out of the State of Colorado — that "Land of Prom- 
ise," through Nebraska — to Council Bluffs, Iowa. Our exit 
from the city of Denver was made at seven, p. m., on the 
evening of June 22d, amidst such a brilliancy, variety and 
gorgeousness of sky scenery as is rarely witnessed, and never 
excelled. The bewilder! n^r splendor of the sunset assured us 
that Old Sol was desperately determined to give us a lasting 
impression of his wondrous beauty in this remarkably pure, 
clear and healthy atmosphere. 

Oil the following morning we found ourselves in the Valley 
ot the Plattr*, in the neighboring State of Nebraska. Kearney 
Junction was tlie first place noted after our morning ablution. 
A rich flood of sunshine deluged the broad expanse of hio-hly- 
cultivated land, variegating the scene with unprecedented bril- 
liancy. The gorgeous atmospheric tints, mingling with the 
fleecy clouds, produced an aspect of more than ordinary attrac- 
tiveness. A few hours more in the pleasant glow of this 
sparkling sunshiny m(>rning brought us to our breakfast station. 
Grand Island. After this meal the discovery was made that a 
leger-dermist dwelt among us. In a mysterious manner an 
onion was translerred into the Ogalallu. This bulb, it behooves 
us to explain, not only caused much merriment, but was 
doomed to become ot historical interest. 

Our route led us through the prolific corn-yielding districts of 
the "State of the Plains." Extensive cribs filled with thousands 
ot bushels of last year's growth skirted the road. This storage 
had a demoralizinsf tendency on the most aged member of our 
party, who threatened to tell his friends wonderful tales oi this 
western agricultural paradise of ours. For, Avhis[)ered he in con- 
fidence, "can T not truthfully say, that 1 saw one thousand 
bushels of corn raised on less than an acre '."' 

At Omaha our family chain lost its first link. .\fter an 
acquaintance, such a one as is gained within the narrow lim- 
its of a car ; after an imprisonment of days and nights in one 
stretch, a break in a congenial company is a sad event. Such, 
therefore, was the case when two of our most respected fel- 
low-passengers left us at Omaha to prolong their sojourn among 
relatives. Crossing the Missouri river we entered the State of 
Iowa, where dinner was had at Council Bluffs. At three, p. 
m., we continued our journey, not, however, before a most 



71 

amusing and interesting strike was indulged in by tlie unpopular 
clique hailing from Boston. Accidentally (for it conld not have 
been otherwise,) when a change of sleepers took place, one of 
inferior pattern and workmanship was shitted into the numer- 
ical position belonging to this aristocratic train. A quiet in- 
dignation meeting resulted in the piling of all their hand bag- 
gage on the platform of the station, and a declaration made 
in genuine Yankee venacular, that the journey would not be 
continued by them — unless a car more in keeping with their 
style and station would be forthcoming. The pale countenance 
and knit brows of the agent plainly indicated that this time, 
at least, he was unequally matched ; consequent!}' the com- 
plainants gained the day. and the wheels once more rolled 
smootlily around, on through the undulating prairie land, 
reaching the Capital De Moines at nine, \) m. The following 
day our meals were sumptuously furnished us in the dining 
car. Beautiful bills of fare, napkins and flowers were presented 
us, making interesting souvenirs of the occasion. Betore the 
close of day, our immber was agaiti lessened. Several more of 
those who had endeared themselves to us branched off for a 
more extended visit, while we that remained hastened on 
througii Illinois, Indiana, Michigan and Canada, halting at 
Niagara Falls, in the State of New York, on Friday, June 
25tb, where we breakfasted at the International Hotel. Only 
a portion of the day was allotted us to view this, tlie sub- 
limest spectacle in the world. A copious shower, prior to our 
arrival, occasioned a peculiar vivifying and refreshing effect. 

Through the generosity of the New York Legislature the 
grounds adjacent to the mighty cataract have been included 
in a public park, hence every portion of the American side 
can be enjoyed free from the petty inqiositions which formerly 
annoyed the visitor. On Goat Island we had a satisfactory 
view of the Canadian Falls; from here the descent to the 
Cave of the Winds is made. This cave is a place back and 
under the Falls. An immense rock stretching out above where 
the waters dash over makes it possible to walk beneath 
with this mighty rush of water overhead. After a walk to the 
islands of Luna and the Three Sisters, we were ready to enjoy 
what had been purposely reserved for last, that grandest of 
all views, the one gained from I'rospect Park. We will not 
attempt to describe what we deem utterly indescribable. This 
roaring, seething, plunging, tremendous rush of water must be 
aeen to be appreciated. The view from above was sufficient 



72 

for our party of linntcd time; but way down one liundred 
and sixty feet were four adventurous ones, who were enjoying 
this magnificence from below. Protected by yellow rubber 
suits, they resembled seals as they clambered out on the 
rocks. The "Maid of the Mist," a small steamer, fearlessly 
plies the river, enabling the visitor to gain good views of 
both sides of this stupendous work of Nature. 

After a general interchange of compliments and regrets at 
parting, we left the ''Bay State"' excursionists, and in the m.idst 
of a tremendous thunder storm, were whirled in omnibuses 
to the station, where w^e soon took the train, and before 
another day had sunk into oblivion, our journe}' was ended 
where it had begun — at the Ninth and Green streets station, 
Philadelphia, where the final separation took place. After a 
most friendly leave-taking, we again drifted apart, returning 
to the care of those who had waited patiently and grown 
anxious for us during our absence. We had traversed our 
country from shore to shore, and traveled over tea thousand 
miles, during these 59 memorable days of '86. 

Now, kind reader, we, too, must part — since nothing more 
remains to be told, — yes, one thought more, — let us breathe it 
softly : 

'-^Be it ever so humble^ there is no place like Home /" 

ZiTELLA. 



31 TCo 



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